TAUNGGYI FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS

The November moon hang bright in the dark sky flanked by millions of twinkling stars. This is the most important night in November( or in the Myanmar Lunar calendar the month of Tzaungmone). This is when the sky is clear of all clouds and the time for people to pray to the Sulamuni Pagoda said to be in the Abode of the Celestial Beings. People all over Myanmar will light up their localities with brightly coloured electric lights or lanterns. And also send up gaily decorated hot air balloons up the sky.

One of the best place to be at this time of the year is in Taunggyi, the capital city of Southern Shan States. The majority of the population there is the Shans with equal numbers of the Pa O ethnic groups and a sprinkling of the Bamar, the Danu and the Palaung groups also. But the common character that binds them is their deep religious belief in Theravada Buddhism. And this most auspicious day of the Fullmoon of Tazaungmone is the best day to show their piety.

Since early afternoon, the surrounding villages and wards of Taunggyi are a beehive of activity. The girls are busy with making themselves pretty and the boys are also working on various decorated floats or lighted lantern poles. Everything must be perfect or the village will lose face in front of the gathered crowds.

As the sun's rays disappear behind the high mountains the procession starts. Decorated floats with stories from the Jatakas (the stories from the many lives of Buddha before He attained Enlightenment) proceed at the front of each group representing a village or a ward in town. Then comes the girls, all in their native dresses and holding a lighted lantern on a pole. There might also be a troupe of musicians beating on the long traditional Shan drums and cymbals: tattooed martial arts master dancing with the beat and showing off his skills. The procession slowly make its way towards the Sulamuni Pagoda (said to resemble its name sake in heavens) at the other edge of the town. Once all the groups in the parade are assembled on the pagoda's platform traditional Buddhist mantras and prayers are recited and the Taunggyi Parade of Lights comes to a happy end.

Photos: Sonny Nyein(Swiftwinds)