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REMINISCENCES ON THADINGYUT

REMINISCENCES ON THADINGYUT

by: Hpone Thant

Soon the black monsoon clouds will clear and the sky will once again be blue. People all over Myanmar will celebrate the end of the Buddhist Lent with many festivities.

Towns and villages all over the country will be gaily decorated with lights: electrical bulbs in the cities but with tradition candles and fire staffs in the outlaying villages. The occasion, according to the Buddhist tradition is to welcome back Lord Buddha back to the Abode of Humans after His sojourn in the Abode of the Celestials beings during the Lent.

According to our beliefs, Lord Buddha descended back to the Abode of the Humans by a golden stairs case, with other Celestials flanking him on both sides, the silver and ruby staircases.

And humans on earth welcome Him with joy.

There will be street performances at many places during the evening; food stalls selling local delicacies as well as other stalls offering a variety of goods, both locally manufactured or even imported. Whole streets will be lighted up and people jostle to get the best standing place to see their favourite entertainment personalities perform.

During daytime, however, most pagodas and monasteries are crowded with devotees offering food to the monks and listening to the Holy Sermons on this auspicious day.

But for the children it is the most important time. They get to go around to their grandparents or other seniors in their family with trays of presents and pay respect to them. In return they are given back pocket money by the elders, which makes them immensely happy.

However, time flies. The days when we rush to our grandparents to pay our respects and receive pocket money had gone by, never to return. Now we wait to receive and enjoy the respects given to us by our grandchildren. Za Yar (old age) had finally caught up with us.

THE SHAKING PAGODA

The Shaking Pagoda

By: Harry Hpone Thant

A village with a curious name of "Hna Kyat Khwe" or in the Myanmar language 2 1/2 ticals village (a traditional Myanmar measure of weight), is where the Shaking Pagoda stand. Off the road on the Kyaukpadaung-Mt.Popa Highway is a small dirt track, where a sign says "4 miles to the Shaking Pagoda". The track meanders among clumps of toddy palm grooves and small villages before it arrives at the Hna Kyat Khwe village. It is a typical Myanmar Dry Zone village. Most are engaged in cultivation of dry zone cash crops like zyziphyus, sesame or ground nut. Or they gather the toddy juices and boil them to get the sweet round balls of jaggery.

When King Alaung Sithu of Bagan was on his tour he stopped at this village. The King wanted to have a pagoda built at this place and commanded that everybody in the army was to contribute one handful of clay and earth to the construction. Curiously, the weight of earth dug by each soldier weighed exactly 2 1/2 ticals each. And the village got its name.

However,due to unknown reasons the pagoda from its plinth up is not rigid. Put a cup of water on the plinth, lean a ladder onto the structure(the part resembling a banana bud), climb up the ladder and shake the pagoda. The bells on the hti or Holy Umbrella will ring audibly and the water in the cup will splash out.

When there was a big earthquake in Bagan in 1975, some outer mortar coverings of this pagoda fell off. The Presiding Abbot wanted to make repairs and sent up some workers to investigate. The workers found a hole in the structure and when they reached inside found a gooey substance that had not hardened despite the centuries after the construction. The inner core had remained soft.

However, the Archeological Department had now banned any sort of shaking the pagoda to prevent further damage.

The Presiding Abbot of the village monastery, where the pagoda is situated, will also show the huge tamarind tree which he says resembles an elephant paying homage to the pagoda.

Curiously enough, it is not the only pagoda with this curious characteristic. There is another near the town of Yenangyaung.

Devotees say it is the miraculous powers of the Celestial Beings that look after the pagoda made this pagoda special. Or maybe it is the unique characteristics of the soil of this area that makes it stay soft. But whatever the explanation it is a most unique phenomenon.

THE ABODE OF NATS (or) MYANMAR'S MT.OLYMPUS

The Abode of Nats (or) Myanmar’s Mt. Olympus.

By: Harry Hpone Thant

Millions of year ago huge volcanic explosions ripped the Myingyan plains, the earth heaved and Mt. Popa was born. Rising out of the arid and dusty plains Mt. Popa over time became a green oasis, a prominent landmark in Central Myanmar, It is indeed a unique sight to behold. Mt. Popa is visible from miles away, a bit hazy but towering high above the Myingyan plain.

The main mountain is approximately 1200 metres high. Another small pinnacle is also visible beside it. This is called in the Myanmar language as the Taungkalat, a solidified volcanic pipe about 250 metres in height. The main Popa Mountain is covered with green and lush vegetation, many species of medicinal herbs, countless wildlife and swift flowing natural springs. Popa in Pali language means flowers as there are also many species of flowers growing around the mountain top. But the smaller Taungkalat is a special place. The Taungkalat stands alone, as a perpendicular mount. The sides are eroded after several millions of years and show layers and layers of solidified lava. These geological and natural phenomena make Popa a unique place in the otherwise hot and dusty central Myanmar region.

Buddhism was just taking roots in faraway Bagan and many people still believe in the supernatural. So this unique place, in their primitive perception of the universe, cannot be anything but the Abode of Nats(spirits), with their powerful influences over humans. It must be where the weikzas and the zawgyis( mythical personalities who dwell in the forest and are in possession of elixir of life) and ogresses(but not the violent kind) live.

Here the resident ogress eats only flowers and is a devout Buddhist. Her name even translate as Mei Wunna, the Pan Sar Biluma (Mei Wunna, an ogress who eat only flowers). But is she a real ogress? Some say she was a beautiful princess from faraway Thaton Kingdom in the south, brought to Bagan as a prisoner. However, she had made Popa her residence to spend her life in meditation with the unique ability to transform her features from a beautiful princess to the face of a frightening ogress. If someone with evil intent approaches her she will project herself in her fearsome guise but if she sees someone she fancies she will reveal herself as a beautiful maiden. But, whatever the truth is, it is a beautiful story.

The weikzas and the zawgyis also have magic wands that can turn female-looking fruits from a special kind of tree that grow in the forest into human forms and enjoy the company of the fruit-maidens. A jolly good equipment to possess. An instant create-a-girl magic wand.

On the Myanmar Mt.Olympus reign U Tint De, Chief of the Myanmar Pantheon of nats. His story is also one of interest; intrigues and power plays and finally a sad and heart-rending end. U Tint De was a strong and popular blacksmith at Tagaung, far to the north of Bagan on the Ayeyarwaddy River. His fame grew so much that the king at Tagaung became afraid of him. He was afraid that one day U Tint De would usurp his kingdom. So he sent word to U Tint De that he would like to make U Tint De’s beautiful sister, Thon Ban Hla, his Queen and persuaded them to come and live at his palace. As a consequence of much court intrigues U Tint De was condemned to die at the stake. His sister Thon Ban Hla saw her brother being burned alive and she also jumped into the inferno. So U Tint De and Thon Ban Hla both became nats. However, any living creature which encroached under the shadows of the Sagar tree, where the duo was burned alive, died. So the King had it cut and floated downstream. The tree beached at Bagan and the Bagan King made statues of the U Tint De and Thon Ban Hla out of the tree, enshrined them at Mt. Popa and people started to worship them.

Another legendary hero connected with Mt. Popa is Byatta. He was a mighty warrior at the court of King Anawrahta, the King of Bagan, on the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy River. Bagan and Mt. Popa seems near yet far. On clear days the silver ribbon of the Ayeyarwaddy River can be seen flashing in the sun from Mt. Popa. One of the daily duties of Byatta was to bring flowers for the royal palace from Mt. Popa. If history is to be believed Byatta runs to Mt. Popa and back in time to bring the flowers back to Bagan before dawn breaks. He could be the world’s greatest and earliest marathon runner then. Well, inevitably Byatta fell in love with Mei Wunna. Presumably she showed her more lovely face to Byatta to get his love. Anyway, they got married and Mei Wunna bore Byatta two sons, Shwe Hpyin gyi and Shwe Hpyin Lay of Taungbyone fame. But that is another story.

One of the four Lords of the White Horse (Myinbyu Shin nats ) is also associated with Mt. Popa. Villagers living around Mt. Popa say that if rain clouds crown the main mountain, do not attempt to cross any of the dry creeks in the vicinity as the waters will rush down very swiftly. But there was one expert horseman who greatly believed in his own prowess as an excellent horseman. One day as the rain clouds covered the mountain peak he tried to cross over the Yamar Creek on his trusty steed. He was nearly across the creek ahead of the rushing waters but disaster struck. One of the hind legs of the horse was seized by the violent current and he drowned together with his horse. And he became a nat and is known as the Yamar Myinbyu Shin Nat(Yanmar Lord of the White Horse).

There are 37 official nats recognized since Bagan time, with many other local and regional natstoo. A long pavilion houses the statues of them at the foot of the Taungkalat. There are life-like statues of U Min Kyaw, the Nat of Bacchanalia, on his horse, the four Myinbyu Shin nats (Lord of the White Horse), Amae Yay Yin( who rules the poisonous creatures west of the Chindwin River), some Shan nats and even Indian nats. But a bottle of Johnny Walker whisky hanging from U Min Kyaw’s arm escapes explanation. Maybe his preferences had switched from the traditional slightly intoxicating toddy palm juice to a more potent and internationally recognized brand!

Taungkalat can be climbed up by a covered iron staircase clinging to its side. As you climb you will be accompanied by troops of wild monkeys begging for food handouts. Along the stairways are such places of interest as Bagan Hmaw, a place where the ogress Mei Wunna looks towards Bagan, waiting for her husband, another place where her two sons were born, a cave said to belong to Boe Min Gaung (another exalted personality who had found immortality by engaging in meditation) and many other such magical and mystical personalities. At the top are many pagodas, which make one marvel how the workers carried the necessary building materials up such narrow and steep steps. The view from the top, after a wheezing 700++ steps, is panoramic. In the west, the shimmering ribbon of the Ayeyarwaddy Rivers borders the endless Myingyan plain and to the east is another endless Meikhtila plain touching the blue, hazy Shan Mountains in the distance.

The main volcano is now extinct. One side had collapsed during one of its violent eruptions. But people at Popa village will swear that the mountainside caved in from the pounding hooves of King Kyansitta’s(another famous Bagan King) war horse.

However, quaint or old-fashioned these superstitions may sound, most Myanmar people still believes in them and worship these nats. Even the most sophisticated and educated person will still pay due reverence to these supernatural beings. Better to be on the good side of them than suffer the bad luck by ignoring them. Better safe than sorry! And a visit to Mt. Popa would undoubtedly be a unique eye-opener for a foreigner to these age old customs still being lovingly followed.

Mt. Popa is easily accessible by car from Bagan. It is just approximately 2 hours driving time. There is also a resort hotel on the side of the main mountain.

Photo: Sonny Nyein/Myanmar Polestar Travels.

IS IT THE DRAGON'S LAIR? THE NAGA PYWET TAUNG AT MINBU

IS IT A DRAGON'S LAIR?

THE NAGA PYWET TAUNG AT MINBU

by:Hpone Thant

Long, long time ago, even before Buddhism had taken roots in Myanmar people were awed with the forces of nature: the clashing of thunder and bolts of lightning that flashed in the sky must be of Gods fighting in heaven, the visitation of illnesses are but punishment from the Gods to those who had defied them. And smoke and fire belching from a volcano must have seem to them like a dragon(Naga in the Myanmar language) spitting out his fiery breath from the bowels of the earth.

Naga worship is not new in Myanmar. In Buddhist stories and folk lores there are many mentions of these mythical creatures. In a tale of old Tagaung, a vigilant youth, Pauk Kyaing, slayed a dragon( who was also a secret lover of the Queen with powers to transform himself into human form) and became King himself. King Kyansitta of Bagan era had a dream where he was shielded by a dragon under its hood and took it as an omen that he will become King one day. This episode is said to be honoured at Bagan when King Kyansittha built the Nagayon(meaning shielded by the dragon) Pagoda. Many pictures of Lord Buddha can be seen where He sits under the spreading hood of a large dragon.

And also among our hill cousins there are many fables where the naga(either a female or male) is named as one of the couple, whose union produced their linage.The Akha beliefs that their womenfolks turn into sleeping female dragons at night and so they sleep apart from their husbands. The Pa O girls of southern Shan State remember their matriarch in their dresses; three layers of clothes that resemble the scales of the dragon plus a circular hairpin that they say is to resemble the naga's eyes. A statue of a mythical female figure with a dragon headdress, Mya Nan Nwe, inside a pavilion at the Botatung Pagoda in Yangon, commands great respect from the female folks as one of their benefactors.

A Myanmar proverb also admonishes unbelievers "Never lie to a Nat or a Naga"or misfortune will fall on you.

So it is no surprise that anything connected with the nagas will have a great interest for the people of Myanmar.

Near Minbu, in central Myanmar, there is a unique geological site. It is called the NAGA PYWET TAUNG"( Mountain where the Naga Breathes). Pilgrims going to the nearby Naga pywet Taung Pagoda invariably also go to see this geological phenomenon. Actually for the scientifically-minded it is an ordinary mud volcano but to the ancient primitive people of the area, with their beliefs in supernatural beings, this must have been seen as a manifestation of the existence of the fiery dragons(naga) living deep inside the earth.

This mud volcano is not very high. In fact it is just about 10-20 feet high. But it belches grey, oozy mud periodically, accompanied by distinctive noxious sulphur fumes, further consolidating the peoples' belief in the mythical creatures.

However, there is one mystery here. In the Myanmar calender we have a notion that the Naga points its head to a certain direction at certain time of the year. Myanmar people belief that it is bad to travel down the direction of the Naga's tail as it will bring misfortune, either when travelling or moving house. Better to transverse the Naga's body or to go in the direction of the mouth. And the curious thing is that the flow of lava from this mud volcano inexplicably shifts direction according to the direction of the naga's tail as shown in the appropriate Myanmar calender month.

So the US of A has its geysers in Yosemite but we have Minbu Mud Volcano. Maybe this is truly the lair of the fire-breathing dragon. Who knows???????????

Minbu is just across the Ayeyarwady River and accessible by car using the bridge at Magway. The NAGA PYWET TAUNG is not far out of town.

PILGRIM FISHES

PILGRIM FISHES

by:Hpone Thant

A large tributary of the Ayeyarwady rivers flows in from the west near the township of Pwintphyu in the Magway Division of Central Myanmar. This is the Mon Chaung. Pwintphyu is also famous for one of the most venerated pagoda in Myanmar, the Legaing Kyaung Daw Ya Pagoda.

Pagoda legends tells us of how during the life time of Lord Buddha this place was where He had a monastery (Kyaung Daw Ya means in the Myanmar language: site of the holy monastery). It was also said to be constructed of sandalwood. And there is another attraction for the pilgrims to visit the pagoda, the pilgrim fishes!

During the monsoon season the Mon Chaung is filled with rainwaters cascading out of the eastern slopes of the distant foothills of the Rakhine Yomas(ranges) and the southern Chin Hills. The Ayeyarwady river is also in flood. This is the time when huge catfishes come to pay homage to the Legaing Kyaung Daw Ya Pagoda.

But the catfishes must be invited. On the Fullmoon day of Waso(July-August) the presiding Abbot of the Pagoda would go out towards the junction of the Mon and the Ayeyarwady rivers to invite the fishes up the Mon Chaung tributary. The whole procession of boats would also accompany the monks on this journey. The monks chant Buddhist Suttas and mantra as they lead the convoy of boats, the lay people follow in their own boats with much song and merriment. At the junction with the Ayeyarwady river the leading boat scatter some food into the water and sail back, with the monks chanting the Buddhist texts all the way. But the fishes are not yet in tow. They might come up in a couple of days. The fishers living here dismantle all nets and fish traps along the way during the whole period of the Buddhist Lent so as not to harm the fishes. It is believed that these giant fishes come to pay the ir homage to the Legaing Kyaung Daw Ya pagoda during the Lent. They stay the whole 3 months period of the Buddhist Lent, disappearing only after the Fullmoon Day of Thadingyut(October). During this time pilgrims from all over the country would congregate here. They go into the water to put gold leaves on the head of the fishes. These fishes are big. Some about 3-4 feet in length but they stay calm when people wade into the river to gild their heads. They are also said to be vegetarians. Pilgrims throw balls of rice husks or popcorn into the water to feed them.

Legaing Kyaung Daw Ya is reached by crossing the Ayeyarwady River at Magway and drive on from Minbu to Pwintphyu. The place where the fishes are fed is about 2-3 miles from the pagoda itself, on the banks of the Mon Chaung. The road to Legaing Kyaung Daw Ya is an all-weather road.There are no accommodations at Pwintphyu or Legaing and visitors must return to Magway for hotel accommodations.

TAUNGBYONE NAT FESTIVAL : A CURIOUS HOLDOVER OF ANCIENT BELIEVES

By: Harry Hpone Thant

Wagaung corresponds to the Christian month of August. It is the period when the monsoon rains reach Upper Myanmar and Ayeyarwady Rivers is full, stretching from one bank to the invisible bank on the other side. It is also the time when the waters of the Ayeyarwady River reach the small village of Taungbyone in Madaya Township, Mandalay Division.

Also this is the time of one of the most famous Nat (Spirit) Festival in the country, the one that dates back to the Bagan Dynasty, nearly 2 centuries ago.

Once upon a time during the time of King Anawrahta of Bagan there lived two mighty warriors, Byatwi and Byatta. Byatta fell in love with an Ogress-Princess Mae Wunna of Mt. Popa and had two sons, Shwe Hpyin Gyi and Shwe Hpyin Lay. After their father had been murdered in one of the court’s intrigues King Anawrahtha took pity on these two young boys and made them his favourites.

Then King Anawrahta went to war against the Chinese to demand the Buddha’s Tooth Relic and on his way back made camp at the village of Taungbyone. The King also commanded that a pagoda should be erected at this site to mark his expedition. His edict was that all his followers should contribute one brick each to the construction of the pagoda to be called “Su Taug Pyi Pagoda”(Wish granting Pagoda).

But the two young adolescent boys were in their teens already and as usual more interested in merry-making, drinking the intoxicating toddy wine daily or engage in cock-fighting and other mischiefs. The elder even fell in love with a village maiden and both forgot to fulfill the King’s command. Two spaces were left vacant on the inside wall of the pagoda and nobody went out of the way to tell the two young brothers of their lapse.

This was the chance the other jealous members of the court were waiting for. The King came to pay homage at the Pagoda’s Consecration Ceremony and saw the two empty spaces. When told that the two brothers had ignored the King’s command, the King told his courtiers to punish the brothers for their violation. The King thought they would be caned lightly with willow stalks but the other members of the King’s entourage had other ideas.

Taking the King’s permission at face value the jealous court officials bound the two youths, took them to the river bank and because royal blood is forbidden to be split on the ground, bludgeoned them to death inside velvet bags. And as the story goes both of them became nats(spirits)

The time came for the King to leave for Bagan but his raft was unable to move. Enquiring about this mishap the two young nats revealed themselves and retold their tragic tale. The King took pity on them and commanded that they be given this region as their fiefdom. Two life size statues were made and this started the custom of the Taungbyone Nat Festival, every Wagaung.

And to commemorate the Consecration of the Su Taung Pyi Pagoda, the King made it mandatory that a Festival be held yearly on the Full-moon Day of Wagaung. But, curiously, instead of the Su Taung Pyi Pagoda Festival being celebrated it has transformed itself into a nat (spirit) festival.

The Taungbyone Nat Festival gathers all believers and followers of Shwe Hpyin gyi and Shwe Hpyin Lay nat brothers from all over the country, as well as some curious foreign visitors. Mostly they are business persons. They come to pay respect to the two nats, ask for supernatural intervention in their business dealings or make good their promises for the success of their endeavours. And the spirit mediums ( nat gadaws) erect stalls and dance to entertain the two nat brothers for a fee. But why most of these spirit mediums are transvestites is beyond explanation or comprehension.

The Taungbyone Nat Festival itself is a very interesting spectacle: ancient beliefs and rituals that still linger into the 21^st century. This is also a very lively and boisterous festival. Festival goers tease and shout, many with profanities and vulgar expressions to each other, but nobody take offence. This is to please and imitate the two young nat-brothers’ behavior when they were alive. A life they spent with much drinking and gambling and having fun. It is also a curious superstitious holdover that on the appointed day, the traditional village which had supplied roasted rabbits to the two brothers to take with their toddy palm beer still bring symbolic roasted rabbits to the festival grounds and offer to the Statues but the village that supplied the ropes to bind the brothers is banned to visit the festival and condemned to clean up the site after the festival. However, the new generations of believers now bring as offerings, bottles of Johnny Walker to the two nat brothers. Perhaps they had changed their preferences from the traditional slightly intoxicating toddy palm juice to a more potent and internationally recognized brand!

The most important date of this Taungbyone nat Festival is the day when the two life size statutes are taken for the bathing rituals (Cho Yey Daw Thon Pwe). Believers push and shove playfully to get as near to the palanquin carrying the statues, hoping that the nats would favour then with a blessing in their business ventures.

Taungbyone is easily accessible from Mandalay by car but as there are no accommodations for tourists it is a day trip destination only. Also because the Festival is celebrated according to the Myanmar lunar calendar, international visitors are advised to enquire ahead the exact dates from the travel agents. The two vacant spaces, said to be the quota of Shwe Hpyin Gyi and Shwe Phyin Lay are still visible to this day.

Photos: Sonny Nyein

NYAUNG GAN:AN ANCIENT PYU BURIAL SITE

NYAUNG GAN ANCIENT PYU BURIAL SITE

by: Hpone Thant

On a mound just overlooking the Chindwin River by the small village called Nyaung gan in Butalin Township of Sagaing Division is a cemetery. But it is not a simple village cemetery. This cemetery is an archaeology site. It is one of the rare Pyu burial grounds. The cemetery is hidden inside a grove of banana plantation but quite easy to access by foot from the village.

Pyu people are believed to be the ancestors of the present-day Bamar people.They were also highly civilized. The Pyus also founded many city states during their time. sent emissaries to nearby pricipalities. Some of the most famous Pyu city-states were, Sriksetra(Thayekhittaya), near Pyay, Beikthano, on the highway from Taungdwingyi to Magway and Hanlin, near Shwebo in Upper Myanmar. Pyu settlements had also been found in the Samon River Valley, near Wundwin township in the Mandalay Division and along the Ayeyarwady River banks at Kya nyat(near Tagaung). The Pyu also have their own language and a developed culture. A collection of five dancing figurines made history not very long ago when they were stolen from the National Museum, sold to an international antiques collector but later graciously returned by the owner to Myanmar.

But they also have the custom of burying with their dead various implements and utensils.This practice had helped in the identification of their burial sites.

Nyaung gan village is a typical Myanmar village, similar to other Dry Zone villages in Upper Myanmar. But one extraordinary phenomenon had made it different from the other Myanmar villages. Not far from it is a cemetery that the local villagers refer as Loke Taing gone(Burial Mound).It had laid there undisturbed for centuries. Nobody knew why this piece of ground was named as "Loke Taing Gone". The village elders say the name was handed down from generations to generations and they had always known that there was a cemetery nearby.

Then the Archaeological Department started excavations and unearthed more than 60 skeletons buried underground, including other artefacts typical of a Pyu burial practice. Forensic investigations also confirmed that all skeletons were identified as Pyu era remains. Almost all the skeletons were buried with their heads pointing North, except for one. The Pyu beliefs that the heads must be pointed northwards to help the departed spirits find their way back to the native lands where they had originated. But nobody could explain why one was not buried this way. Maybe he was an outsider who died at this place or something.Nobody knows. At some places the skeletons were also stacked, one above the other, some two and even in three tiers.

But there was a puzzle that still needs to be solved. Many of the skeletons were wearing pieces of square stone bangles on their wrists. Even now these bangles were impossible to take off. They would not slide out as the palms were obstructing. But then how did the wearers put these stone bangles on when they were alive? Surely the bangles were not put on after death. The palm, as stated above, would not fit the hole even with only the bones remaining. There were also no cuts or any signs on the bangles that point to anything that the bangles were tempered before being put on.

So who were these people? When did they live and , above all, how did they manage to put on the stone bangles? The mystery had remained locked for centuries now and would probably stay that way for many more years in the future.

Note:

Nyaung gan Village is easily accessible by car from Monywa, only about 2-3 hours drive. Leave the car at the village and walk a short distance to get to the cemetery. The site is now under the protection of the Archaeology Department.

Loke Taing is a very old Myanmar word for cemetery.

OFFERING OF WASO HOLY ROBES

OFFERING OF WASO HOLY ROBES

THE HOLY MONTH OF WASO

by:Hpone Thant

The rains had arrived in our land. The lakes and the ponds are full and the mighty Ayeyarwady River rushes down towards the delta with renewed force. The farmers are wholly engaged in their paddy fields, heedless of the lashing torrents that come down from the dark rain clouds above, Thunder booms and lightnings flashes. It is the wettest time of the year in Myanmar.

But the Myanmar month of Waso(corresponding to the Christian calender month of July) is one of the holiest of all in the Myanmar Buddhist calender. Four Great Happenings of Lord Gautama Buddha are said to have occurred during the Fullmoon Day of Waso, namely:

(1) Lord Buddha was conceived at midnight on this Fullmoon Day inside the womb of Queen Thiri Maha Devi, of Kappilavatsu.

(2)Prince Siddartha saw the Four Great Omens, namely an old person, infirm person, a dead body and a Yahan(monk). He immediately realized that he should renounced all his worldly attachments and become a monk if He is to escape from this endless circle of getting old, getting infirm and finally death.The only escape is to become a monk and find Salvation in attaining Nirvana.Thus on this Fullmoon Day of Waso He renounced all his worldly attachments to seek Nirvana

(3)Lord Gautama Buddha gave his First Sermon, The Dhamma Setkya Sermon, to the five disciples on the evening of this Fullmoon Day.

(4)He showed his omniscient powers to a group of heretics on this Fullmoon Day.

And the Fullmoon Day of Waso also marks the beginning of the Buddhist Lent, lasting until the rains cease in Thadingyut(October). According to the customs the monks are confined to their monasteries during this period.They may not leave their monasteries for overnight visits. Lord Buddha had imposed this restriction to prevent the monks disturbing the works of the farmers during this busy period and to spare unnecessary damage to the crops in the paddy fields.

However, the monks are still needed to go about their daily rounds for alms during this period and it became evident that they would need change of robes that had become wet or soiled. Lay persons are permitted to offer to the monks Waso Thingan (Waso Holy Robes) to the monks in order that they may have dry robes to change into after coming back from their daily alms rounds. And this offering of Holy Robes to the monks on the Fullmoon Day of Waso had become established as the Waso Holy Robes Offering Ceremony. Devotees would gather at the monasteries and observe the 10 Holy Commandments, listen to the sermons, offer the new robes to the monks and generally begin observation of the Buddhist Lent.

This auspicious commemoration of the Waso Fullmoon Day is not only observed in Myanmar but by all Buddhists, wherever they may be.

Photos: Harry Hpone Thant

MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE

MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE

(WE SHALL PLAY IN THE RAINS)

"Moe Ywa Yin Moe Yay Cho Mae", that is a ditty that every Myanmar child knows. As Myanmar is a monsoonal country and enjoys abundant rains it is not a surprise that all children love playing and splashing about in the rains.

But the rains not only give joy to the children but also bring immense benefit for the farmers. July is the wettest month in Myanmar. It is the middle of the rainy season and all the fields are flooded with water. The ponds and the lakes are also filled with life-giving waters. All the rivers are full. The Ayeyarwady River, the Chindwin Rivers are now broad expenses of water, one bank now invisible from the other. Many of the sand bars that had restricted the riverine traffic had now disappeared as the river rushes down towards its mouth hundreds of miles away to the south. Some of the villages that were on dry land just a few months ago are now isolated islands in the middle of the roaring currents. But the villagers are happy. These raging torrents bring down rich loam that will cover their fields and when the waters recedes after the monsoon the land will again be fertile.

The fields of paddy are now finally planted. Vast rolling green seas of paddy nodding gently in the stiff breeze. The farmers and the oxen had toiled hard to make this happen. A granary to feed the multitudes when they are gathered later in the year. But now, as thunder boomed and lightnings flashed the village children sing with joy under the lashing curtains of rains.

And it is with deep reminiscence that I finally realize that my innocent childhood had gone forever and I will never have that chance to sing my favourite ditty again.

"MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE, MAE MAE LAR YIN NO SO MAE, PE PE LAR YIN OHN THEE KYWE SAR MAE"

Or to make our English speaking friends understand: We will play in the rains and when mother comes we will suckle up to her but when father comes we will ask him to crack open a coconut"

THE COLOURFUL DRESSES OF THE PALAUNG MAIDENS

THE COLOURFUL DRESSES OF THE PALAUNG MAIDENS

by: Harry Hpone Thant

There are more than 130 different ethnic groups making Myanmar their home. And each and every group has its distinctive traditional dresses. The dresses also reflect their beliefs in their origin, which they lovingly tell and re-tell at every occasion.

Palaungs are scattered all over the Shan States. Mostly they engage in the planting and curing of tea leaves. According to some accounts they are distinguished into Ngwe (Silver) and Shwe (Gold) Palaungs. Gold Palaungs live around Kyaukme, Namsan in the Northern Shan State and the majority of the Silver Palaungs make their homes in the Southern and Eastern Shan States. No one can say why they are differentiated as such but one story is that a Shansawbwa (hereditary prince) from the Northern Shan State, married a Palaung girl and showered her with so much gold that they became known as Gold Palaungs. Also most of the Silver Palaungs women wear broad silver bands around their waits as ornamental belts.

And there is also an enchanting story attached to their traditional dresses. But as usual, the story starts with, Once Upon A Time.............

There were seven, young female beautiful Keinnari creatures(half-human and half-bird mythical creature). One day they were splashing about happily at a lake when suddenly a Prince happened upon them. All managed to run away except the youngest, who was caught by his magic lasso. The Prince took the young Keinnari to his palace and to keep her from returning to her native land put her in three tiers of magic belts, a cloth belt, a lacquered cane belt and a silver belt.

The Palaung women dresses still show these ancient beliefs. As the young Keinnari girl was abruptly surprised by the prince she had no time to dress properly. The sarong was hastily pulled up to her breast and the blouse was put on quickly. Not having time to button up properly a jungle thorn was used instead to fasten it.

All these are still evident in the dresses. The sarong is still pulled up high to cover the breasts, the blouse is worn over it but now a safety pin had replaced the jungle thorn. And the three tiers of belts are still worn.

All the Palaung ladies still believe that if they are able to take off all the belts they would gladly fly away to their native Silver Cloud Land.

photos:Sonny Nyein

A FOREST PROTECTED BY NATS(SPIRITS)

A FOREST PROTECTED BY NATS(SPIRITS)

by: Harry Hpone Thant

There is a village by the name of Zee Oh,about 12 kilometres off the main Bagan-Kyaukpadaung Highway. And an old growth forest beside it. A sign posted at the entrance will point the way for inquisitive visitors. This clump of trees is known as the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest and under the protection of the Forestry Department. But it had been under more powerful guardians than a government agency for centuries it seems. It is under the more powerful protection of two brother and sister nats since the Bagan period!

As legends go there was a very beautiful girl, Pan Mya Yin, who live on the territory of the Bagan Kingdom. News of her beauty had spread far and wide inside the Kingdom and the King of Bagan became interested. He summoned her to present herself at his court to be crowned Queen. But the girl was interested in religious pursuits only and do not want to wed the King. So she and her brother, (U) Aung Tin Hla, ran away, came to this place and lived secretly, afraid of the King's fury if he ever found them. Regrettably, they were eventually found by the King and executed. So they became nats and made this clump of old growth forest their home in their supernatural plane of existence.

This forest right in the middle of the central dry zone is unique. It is green and cool with towering trees rustling in the wind under the shadow of Mt.Popa, a stark contrast to the cactus-dotted perimeter. Creepers dangle from many trees, trees that only grow in places where there is much more rain than here. There are even huge banyan trees that only flourish in the wettest regions of the country. The creek beds are moist and cool although there is no water in them. Birds chirp in the high branches. A truly unimaginable place in the hot, dry environment.

There is a village nearby with the same name, Zee Oh. A typical Myanmar village engaged in traditional agriculture; sesame, groundnut and other cash crops typical of the dry zone. The villagers are simple, friendly, and most of all, both religious and superstitious.

At the entrance to the forest is a rudimentary nat shrine for the two nats but no statues. The villagers explained that the nats do not like to have any statues of them, no elaborate offerings too, just some desert flowers would suffice. Many footpaths criss-cross the forest floor. People from surrounding villages use them to get from one village to another. But all will reverently take off their footwear on entry into the cool shade of the forest with a customary kowtow and a silent incantation in the direction of the small rickety shrine.

But what had preserved this old growth forest from destruction and degradation is because of the two nats. The villagers dare not take even one twig out of the forest or break a limb off a tree and offend the nats. If they need firewood they ask for permission to gather the dry branches from the nats. If they need some timber to erect a pandal for an occasion like a wedding or a merit making ceremony they ask the nats' permission to use the produce from the forest. And they must put back every unused parts at the end of the ceremonies. A more powerful and followed edict than any of the rules and regulations enacted by the Forest Department!

Another curious belief of the Zee Oh villagers is that as the young lady nat was so disgusted with the behaviour of the King and his troops she just hates to see any kind of improper behaviour between the genders inside the forest. Couples scrupulously refrain from such acts when they are inside the forest lest they become victims of their ire. Also the nats do not tolerate any offensive language, either inside the forest or even in the village. One villager retold how his hut burned down without any reason after he had quarreled with his parents-in-law the previous night after a drunken bout and used foul language.

Many attested to the author that they had actually seen a pagoda inside the forest when they became disorientated and lost. But later cannot find the way back, as if it was like in a dream or an illusion. The village elders all agreed that despite the vicious battles fought between the Japanese and Allied Armies around this area during WW II and during the civil war that followed in the wake of the country's Independence in 1948, their village was spared because of the supernatural powers of the nats.

Also there is a huge tree in the Zee Oh village, split in the middle and large overhanging branches touching the ground that the local lore tells as being the work of giant elephants that roamed here during ancient times. Now this huge tree and its branches are supported by concrete pillars, courtesy of the Archeology Department.

Zee Oh village is accessible from Bagan by off-road vehicles only. The road follows the deep ruts of the cart tracks, so only vehicles with high ground clearance can drive on it. Visits to the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest and Zee Oh village are day trip programmes from Bagan.

"It is alright for you to keep your shoes on in the forest because you are visitors", the village Abbot assured us when we visited. Our guide also mumbled a soft apology to the guardian nats"These are but ignorant visitors with tender feet. Please allow them to leave their footwear on when entering your area". Apparently, he received an okay because he nodded his head but nevertheless, we took off our footwear lest we offend the nats. So step carefully if you ever visit the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest!

WE WISH TO SEE OUR SON COME BACK WITH A POT OF GOLD ON HIS HEAD

WE WISH TO SEE OUR SON COME BACK WITH A POT OF GOLD ON HIS HEAD

One of the many incarnations of Lord Buddha was as young man named Thuwunna Thama(or the Golden Youth).

His was a pitiful existence. The family was poor. His two old parents were ill and infirm, as well as blind. The family live in the forest, gathering wood and lived off the land.But the young man , Thuwunna Thama, was ever the dutiful son. He would go into the forest daily and look for food for his two elderly parents.

One day, to his misfortune, he rummaged under an pile of wood where underneath coiled a deadly python. The disturbed python shot his venom into young Thuwunna Thama and he fell into a coma.

The day grew old. The two old parents waited for their son who was late and became worried.Having no means to call for help they solemnly made vows to heaven that their son, Thuwunna Thama, had always been a good son. He had taken care of his elderly parents conscientiously and if these words be true, may the heavens help them.

Their honest words reached the Abode of the Celestials and the throne of the King of the Celestials (Sakra) became hard as marble. Sakra investigated the cause of this phenomenon and saw the plight of the two infirm couple and he transformed himself into human form, came down to earth and asked the two old persons what would be their earnest wish if their sights were to be restored.

Both of them replied "We would like to see our son, Thuwunna Thama, come back to us with a pot of gold on his head"!

Sakra granted their wish not only restoring their sights but also he revived their son Thuwunna Thama.

And the two elderly couple saw their son emerge from the forest with a pot of gold on his head.

This beautiful story teaches us that the children has the moral duty to look after their own parents with pure hearts and enduring love, caring for them in their twilight years, paying back with gratitude, the love and sacrifices the parents had showed to them in their formative years. And it is the wish of every parents to see the children prosper in the world.

But sadly,the moral of this story is getting lost in the daily race after wealth and fame in this modern world.

IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY

IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY.

Once upon a time in one of his many incarnations Lord Gautama Buddha was king of a herd of elephants. The herd lived happily in the mythical Himawunta Forest. The Elephant King's name was Saardan and he was pure white. Also he had two elephant queens; Maha Thubadda and Sula Thubadda.

One day while the herd was playing on the banks of a lake, Saardan, the Elephant King playfully gave Sula Thubadda a bouquet of flowers. But as luck might have it it was infested with red ants. Sula Thubadda became very angry and harboured ill-will toward the Elephant King and vowed that in her next incarnation she be born to extract revenge for the slight she suffered. As the story goes, Sula Thubadda died and was reborn and consequently became Queen of King Bramadutta in the Kingdom of Varanasi.

Then she remembered her vows to take revenge upon Saardan, the Elephant King and started planning. She pestered the King that she wants to wear ivory earrings from the great tusks of Saardan , the Elephant King who lived inside Himawunta Forest. Finally the king gave in and summoned a famous hunter, Thaw Note Hto, to bring him the tusks of the great white elephant.

The hunter travelled to Himawunta Forest for 7 years, 7 months and 7 days until he got to the lake where the great Saadan Elephant King and his herd bath daily. Then he dug a large hole in the earth where the great elephant usually stands after coming out of the water, covered it and hid inside with just a small hole to shoot his arrow through.

The unsuspecting Saardan Elephant King came out of the water and as he always normally do stood above the hole where the hunter hid. Thaw Note Hto, shot his arrow through the small aperture and the force was so great that the arrow pierced the body and came out of the elephant's back. The herd was terror-stricken and run off in all directions to find the killer but the elephant king deduced that as the arrow came from beneath his navel the archer must be under him, hidden underground. He was then able to expose the hunter and asked him why he had shot him as they had never been enemies before. The hunter Thaw Note Hto replied" It is the Queen who wished to make ivory earrings out of your tusks and it was the king who sent me on this errand. And I am but an instrument of their scheming. Out of these three co-conspirators is it fair that I, the simple luckless and ignorant servant, am to be singled out and penalized for this hideous deed!"

The elephant king in his magnanimity not only spared the hunter's life but also sawed off the two tusks himself for the hunter to take back to the Queen.

The great hunter, Thaw Note Hto, arrived back at the palace and presented the two tusks to the Queen, whom on seeing the proof of her former partner's love for her fell down dead on the spot with remorse.

This is one of the greatest stories from the life of Lord Buddha in one of his incarnations. But the words of hunter, Thaw Note Hto, had become a famous cliche among young couples whenever they want to expressed their feelings of unjust treatment by third parties.

"IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY"

ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

Once upon a time, in a small village far from Tagaung, a city state up north on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, a young lad by the name of Pauk Kyaing was quickly growing up. Unlike others of his generation he was unique. He wants to know about other places, he is always inquisitive and seeking answers and he is always alert and vigilant.

Then he started on an epic journey from his village to see the world. Arriving at Tagaung he saw that people were excited about one thing or other. He asked about the cause of their excitement and got back the answer that the kingdom had lost another ruler and there would be an occasion to select a new king. This would be done by sending a gilded royal carriage around the area with a wish that it finds a suitable candidate. Pauk Kyaing was tired so he quickly fell asleep inside the nearby forest but was awaken suddenly.Surrounding him were courtiers of court and they were asking him to become their king. The Gilt Royal Carriage was waiting to carry him to the palace!

Pauk Kyaing accepted the offer and come night time he started wondering about the mysterious deaths of his predecessors. He remembered what his mentor, the village Abbot had taught him. He had travelled and now is in Tagaung. the second teaching had made him ask questions and he had got answers about the sudden deaths of the previous kings. Now what about the third teaching of his mentor? The third that admonished him to be vigilant. What might that be, he thought? The deaths could not be natural. And every death was on the bridal night, inside the royal bed chambers. The Queen must be involved, was his conclusion. He must be vigilant.

So secretly he brought the trunk of a banana plant and laid it beside the Queen and made it as if it was a sleeping human. But he himself hid behind a pillar with a sword in hand.

The night became quiet. Nobody stirred. Midnight. There was a stirring somewhere inside the bed chambers and the curtains parted. A hissing sound and a giant Naga (a mythical serpent with supernatural powers to transform themselves into human forms at will) appeared. Seeing a man lying beside his beloved queen it became agitated and struck out with its fangs. So that was what happened with the previous kings, Pauk Kyaing now understood. The Naga was the secret lover of the queen and murdered everybody who dare to sleep with his lover. But this time it was a different story. The Naga's fangs became entangled in the fibres of the banana stem. He could not extricate them. The Naga was trapped. Pauk Kyaing came out of hiding and slew the Naga with his sword and was saved and the story ends ........................................and they lived happily ever after!

So, remember Maung Pauk Kyaing and his credo: Thwa Par Myar Hka Yee Yauk, Mae Bar Myar Sa Kar ya, Ma Eight Ma Nay A Thet Shay!

Or for our English readers to understand: Start travelling and you shall see new places, ask and you shall have answers, be vigilant and you shall live long.

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

Myanmar is dependent on the monsoon rains for growing rice, the staple food for her people. The farmers depend on the rains to plant the paddy and villages rely on the rains to replenish their ponds and lakes where water is taken for drinking, cooking and other household chores. Normally the black rain clouds gather above the Bay of Bengal by mid May and by June monsoon rains are in full swing in the delta. Then the farmers get ready to go to the paddy fields. But sometimes the rains are late.

When the rains are late there are several ways to make the rains come. No modern method of seeding the clouds, no. But more ancient and, believe it or not, reliable ways are used. The town people ask the monks to recite the "Nga Yant Min Sutta" and circling around the town.This Holy Sutta is supposed to be uttered by Lord Buddha in one of his earlier Lives when he was incarnated as a Nga Yant(a species of butter fish). Reciting this sutta is thought to be conducive to bring the black rain clouds to pour their loads on to the parched land.

Near Mandalay, looking towards the East, is a solitary hill, named Yankin Taung. where Lord Buddha was believed to have lived there in one of his previous incarnations as a nga yant. Wheezing up uncountable steps will get one up the top of this hill. There are many Buddhist monasteries on the top as well as natural springs. And there is also a deep cut in the hill, called nga yant dwin(a hole for the nga yant) where a big nga yant fish statue is seen. Pilgrims paste gold leaves on this statue and pray to it.

Another option to bring the rains is more fun. Teams gather to play tug-of-war between them, with appropriate offerings to the Rain God Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa Nat. This simply consist of the customary coconut and three hands of banana, plus some eugenia leaves as offering. The nat kadaw(spirit medium) pleads to the nat for his intervention before the competition. Everybody cheers their favourite teams with much clapping and encouragements.

But somebody still has yet to explain the co-relation between the tug-of-war and the Nat Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa. However, be it coincidence or not, rains had fallen soon after these ceremonies had completed.

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

by:Harry Hpone Thant

Kani is a small town on the western bank of the Chindwin River. It is inhabited mainly by Myanmar people and supposed to be set up since the Bagan period.The main occupation of the town people is agriculture.It is also believed to be the origin of the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat (Lord of the White Horse of Kani).

As one approaches the town from the south by boat up the Chindwin River, a steep cliff is visible on the left hand side while the right side is flat agricultural land. And this cliff face is an important historical landmark that makes Kani unique.

Once upon a time during the early Bagan period this small community was under a governor appointed by the court at Bagan. One of the main duties of the governor was to travel to Bagan annually to pay his tributes and pledge allegiance to the King. Being far away from the King's centre of power the governor slowly began to drift way and his power grew. He began to miss his annual visits and the King became suspicious of his loyalty. So the King sent an army to bring back the recalcitrant governor back to Bagan for punishment.

However, Kani was situated on a very strategic place. With the swift flowing Chindwin river and the steep cliff acting as natural barriers the town was difficult to conquer. It withstood all assaults by the King's troops. After a prolonged siege the King's army was ordered to withdraw without achieving any success.

The town's inhabitants were jubilant when they saw the attackers withdrawing. One of the town's women became so jubilant that she went up the cliff and taunted the retreating forces with not only profanities but also with vulgar gestures. The King's troop were so angry and insulted by the actions of this woman that they turned back and attacked the town with renewed ferocity. This time, however, the town fell. The governor,sensing that he would find no mercy at the hands of his overlord, tied a strip of cloth over his warhorse's eyes, rode up to the cliff and jumped into the Chindwin River and became a nat(spirit). And so was born the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin nat.

Even to this day the town pays homage to Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat annually in a nat dance. The hereditary spirit mediums(nat kadaws) dance and pay homage to the Nat and ask for his patronage and intervention, to make the town safe from natural disasters, have a good harvest and generally look after its wellbeing.

This is but another example of ancient beliefs that had been lovingly preserved and of customs followed even into the 21st century.

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

By: Hpone Thant

Once upon a time, there was a very strong blacksmith who lived at a small town called Tagaung, on the upper reaches of the Ayeyarawaddy River, north of Bagan. His name was U Tint De (Mr. Handsome).He was also a very popular man. Then the King of Tagaung heard about his feats and was afraid that one day U Tint De might usurp his kingdom. So he sent words to U Tint De that he wish to make his beautiful sister, Thon Ban Hla, his Queen and also invited U Tint De to come and live at his palace.

But one day, on one pretext or another, U Tint De was condemned and set to be burned at the stake. When his sister saw the brother being burned at the stake she rushed out of the palace and jumped into the fire. The King tried to hold on to his Queen but was able to save only her head from the inferno. So, to cut the story short, both U Tint De and his sister, Thon Ban Hla became nats(spirits).

However, to spite the King, the nats haunted the Sagar tree where they were put to death. Every creature which came into its shadow died. The King had it cut down and floated down the Ayeyarwaddy River where it came to rest at Bagan. The Bagan King heard about the beached tree and after consultations with his royal astrologers made statues out of the Sagar tree to be worshipped by his subjects. Here the story became blurred. Nobody can tell for sure how U Tint De became the guardian nat or spirit of a house. Nobody can say why he became the chief of all the official 37 nats that are said to reside at Mt. Popa. But one thing for sure is that in almost all Myanmar houses in a corner near the Buddha Images(but a bit lower) one will see a coconut hanging on the wall. It will have a red and white band, resembling a headcloth, around it and a fan standing beside.

Most Myanmar believes that U Tint De guards the house against all evil. He is the guardian of the house. If there is a death in the house the coconut is taken out of the house to be hung elsewhere on the road. This is to let the butterfly spirit of the deceased have free access into the house until after a merit making lunch(soon) is offered to the monks after a week and free the butterfly spirit to roam freely. Otherwise U Tint De would bar entrance to the deceased’s butterfly spirit. After the traditional lunch(soon) is offered to the monks and to friends and relatives of the deceased a new coconut is brought back into the house for U Tint De to reside again.

Also the coconut must be replaced if the water inside dries out or the top part becomes loose. Otherwise it will bring bad luck to the household. Then before the Myanmar Lent begins in the month of Waso(June/July) and at the end of it is Thadingyut(September/October)the coconut must be replaced with a new, green one.

The coconut has to be screened from light too because U Tint De was burned at the stake and he hates heat. And it is a common belief that coconut water is fed to the burn victims to ease the pain. The housewife would also fan the coconut as a daily ritual or to ask for any supernatural intervention to overcome a difficult situation.

For us living in the 21^st century these superstitious rituals might seem strange and quaint but they make up the character and beliefs of the Myanmar people making them unique in this world. An instant world with many ready made answers on Google!

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

Bagan was born on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River in the central part of present day Myanmar. The powerful City-State rose on the east bank of the Ayeyarwady River in the 9th century and was the birthplace of modern day Myanmar State and Theravada Buddhism.

A traditional verse says "Kya Oh An Bagan Ti(which if transposed into numerals corresponds to the date of the establishment of the Bagan Empire).There were many kings that reigned there. Legends tell us that there were 55 Kings who ruled in Bagan but recorded history began only after the reign of King Anawrahta(1044-1077 A.D) who consolidated his kingdom into one of the most powerful city-states of that time. Bagan retreated into history after King Narathihapati (Tayoke Pye Min) fled the capital with the onslaught of the Mongols in 1287 A.D.

In the Niddesa Parabeik (a loosely binded book made of palm leaves on which the ancients record significant occasions) it was recorded that Arimaddanapura or Pauk kan Pyi gyi(the traditional name of Bagan) was established by King Pyinbya in 849 A.D, and referred to two palace sites inside the walled city. The palace of Pinbya Min was located at 144 Ta(a traditional Myanmar measure of distance) to the west of the Tharaba Gate. The Parabeik also recorded that King Kyan Sit Tha(1084-1112 A.D), who assumed the crown afterAnawrahta, also started a palace for himself in 1101 A.D and it took a year to finish it. On completion of his palace the King set up four stone inscription pillars to record his deed but with the passage of time the inscriptions were broken into pieces. Miraculously, however, all the pieces were recovered from near the Tharaba Gate and are now housed inside the Bagan Museum.

Starting from 2003, the Myanmar Archaeological Department had began excavations at the Bagan Palace site. Altogether 16 squares have been unearthed. The excavations also unearthed large systematically built structures made of brick and one small brick structure of 85 metres aligned north to south. One 40 metres long brick wall stretching from east to west two brick walls, brick floor, brick gutter and brick circles were also unearthed. There were many rows of such brick circles, each circle with smaller circles adjacent to it. Regrettably nothing was found of the Palace itself except for numerous earthen bowls,potsherds,glazed potsherds, earthen pots, terracotta discs, iron swords, brass rings and other assorted artefacts.

Architects have been able to reconstruct the layout of the Palace and construct a prototype based on the excavated physical evidence. The reconstructed Palace is now open to visitors.

Acknowledgement: Thanks are due to U Khin Aung Htun, and the G.M of Tharaba Gate Hotel for the basic information and photos.

AS THE BLACK FACE WEEPS

"The black face will weep and the dead shall come to life". That usually means that the black monsoon clouds has gathered to bring the much needed rain on the parched land and the dead vegetation and the hibernating animals, like the frogs, will come to life again.

The monsoon rains are a blessing to our motherland. The rain clouds gather far away in the Bay of Bengal to bring life-giving water to our country. Vaulting above the high Rakhine Ranges and sweeping across the flat Ayeyarwaddy delta, the black rain clouds pour down to bring back to life the dry paddy fields, fill our ponds and rivers with nourishing water.

As the rivers and the ponds fill with water the farmers get ready to begin their work. Oxen are readied, the ploughs cleaned. But the farmers are happy. They are the true sons of the earth.

The land will once more be green again. Vast acres of paddy fields to feed the people of Myanmar and to fill the granaries with food. Typical scenes at these times would be a solitary farmer behind a pair of oxen tilling his land under the lashing rains, his dear wife and children waiting under the shade of the big rain tree, waiting for him to finish his work and join them for lunch. A simple farmers' lunch, nothing elaborate. Heaps of steaming rice, a lump of ngapi ( fermented fish ), a clear veggie soup made from the vegetables found on the land near their modest hut. A smoked fish, from the catch the farmer had caught in the streams the previous night, would be a treat for them. At another plot would be a bevy of young girls transplanting the young paddy from the nurseries.Smiling faces, dabbed with the yellowish paste of thanahka, a natural sunscreen from the thanahka plant. They are also happy with their work. They know also that it is an important job. Unless the young paddies are planted carefully they might not ripen into golden stalks heavy with rice grains. Their songs float on the air despite the heavy monsoon rains that pelt them mercilessly. The peals of thunder and streaks of lightning forming a perfect background to their singing. Those would be the typical scenes in all the farming communities in Myanmar.And nights would be filled with the sounds of the frogs, came back to life.

And we pray that the rains be heavy, filling our fields, our ponds and rivers with life-giving waters

THE KAMBAWZATHADI PALACE

It was the time of powerful Kings and valiant heroes, epic battles and marvelous palaces. In the late 15th century Myanmar was in turmoil. The Bamars were concentrated around Innwa in the central regions of the country and the Mons were in the lower part. A series of bitter fighting that lasted for 40 years wrecked the countryside. Many fled to Taungoo, at that time a Bamar outpost not far from the Mon capital of Bago(Pegu). Taungoo became strong and contested the Mons'rule and after the defeat of the Mons, the Bamar Kings from Taungoo had founded the Hanthawaddy Dynasty(first it was called the Taungoo Dynasty) by 1491. King Mingyi Nyo was the patriarch of this line of kings but the two most powerful monarchs of this period were King Tabin Shwe Hti(1515-1551) and King Ba Yint Naung(1551-1582).

Tabin Shwe Hti, named because he had one strand of golden hair on his head, came down often from his Royal Capital of Taungoo to fight with the Mon armies of Bago. But one tale that went into history was his daring challenge to have a Royal Ear-Piercing Ceremony on the platform of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda at Bago, right under the nose of his enemy.

But the King that really made history and established the 2nd Myanmar Empire was the brother-in-law of King Tabin Shwe Hti. His name was Bayint Naung or the King's elder brother. He became King of the Hanthawaddy Dynasty after King Tabin Shwe Hti. He fought to expand his Empire. At its height the 2nd Myanmar Empire included almost all areas of present day Myanmar as well as parts of Manipur in present day India, Chiang mai and Ayudhaya in Thailand. His Empire also went as far away as Vientien in Loas(known at that time as Linzin). But what he is more remembered is his grand Kambawzathadi Palace in Bago.

After the consolidation of his Kingdom King Bayint Naung(also referred to as Ba Yint Naung Kyaw Htin Nawrahta in some history text books) decided to build a palace for himself. Construction was said to have started in 1553. The plan called for construction of the palace on the south of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda with two courtyards. The Inner Courtyard would have 6 main buildings plus other smaller complexes, about 70 of them in total. Then there would also be an outer courtyard to house the other members of the royal retinue.

The Main Audience Hall, where he would receive his subordinate lords on their annual homage paying ceremonies and to be use for all official ceremonies, the Treasury, Sleeping Quarters for his Chief Queen and other royal consorts and concubines would be in the inner court. His favourite daughter Princess Raja Datu Kalaya was to have her own accommodations also. Even the Royal White Elephant would have his own stable as well as pens for the other fighting war elephants. The Palace was finished in 1553.

The various lords and governors of the provinces were commanded by the Court to contribute building materials for the palace. According to ancient records discovered there were 222 Teak pillars used in the construction of the Main Audience Hall, all contributions from the lords and other courtiers of the court. Some of these pillars can be seen inside a shed by the side of the reconstructed Main Audience Hall. Some stumps even have names scratched on the bases, presumably of the lord who had sent it to the palace construction. These pillars were unearthed not very long ago during excavations for recontruction of the Palace by the government in1990 and are supposed to be from the gutted Royal Palace which fell victims to its enemies in 1599.

Caesar Frediricke, a Venetian merchant who visited Bago during its glorious days, said, " The King's Palace is in the middle of the Citie, made in the form of a walled Castle, with ditches full of water around about it, the Lodgings within are made of wood all over gilded, with fine pinnacles, and very costly worke, covered with plates of gold". Another Portuguese merchant named Souza also described the palace as" even the lowliest room was covered with gold and murals. There were roofs made of gold sheets on some of the buildings and in some rooms there were life-size gold statues of the King and his Queens studded with gemstones".

But all that glitters had come to an end in 1599. The magnificent Kambawzathadi Palace, with its shimmering gilded roofs was torched and the mighty Hanthawaddy Empire was destroyed by invading armies.

Now only the re-constructed Main Audience Hall and the Kings's Sleeping Quarters, the Bamayathana Hall (Bee Throne Hall), stands as mute tribute to the powerful old days.

THE HOLY MONTH OF KASON

"The land dries up in Tagu but all is parched in Kason". That is the saying in Myanmar as the sun scorch the countryside with its blazing heat. The village ponds are dry and the rivers are low. But soon there will be a light sprinkling of rains. Not the heavy downpours of the monsoonal months but enough to let the mango buds make their appearance. They are the mango showers, alerting the farmers to get ready for the new planting season and giving the cityfolks the promise of the taste of the sweet tasting exotic mango fruits.

But the Myanmar month of Kason ( May) is also one of the most important months in Myanmar Buddhist chronology.

It is associated with the FOUR GREAT HAPPENINGS in Lord Gautama Buddha's Life.

The first is that He received the prophesy that He will become Lord Buddha in his future life.

The second is that He was born on the Fullmoon Day of Kason

The third is that He attained Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree(Ficus religiosa) on this day.

The fourth is that He "entered Nirvana (died)" on this day.

And in all the Buddhist countries of South East Asia this month is regarded as one of the most auspicious month in the Buddhist calendar.

In Myanmar this Fullmoon Day of Kason(May) is celebrated all over the country. The most common celebration is to water the Bodhi tree inside the precincts of pagodas and monasteries. As we believe that Lord Gautama Buddha attained his Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree people regard these trees as symbolic icons of worship. They gather in procession and bring water to be poured on the roots so that the tree should survive the hot summer heat.

The grand celebration of the Kason Holy Day is elaborately celebrated at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. The Pagoda Trustees organizes an official ceremony at the main Bodhi tree on the South East corner of the pagoda's platform. Youths dressed as mythical Celestial Beings, some in the costumes of Sakra, the King of the Celestials, others as Brahmas(other inhabitants of the Celestial Abode), garudas(mythical birds) and dragons lead the procession of devotees. The devotees, all dressed in sombre dark brown sarongs and white shirts and blouses, each with a pot of cooling water in their hands approach the Bodhi tree and pour water on it. This procession, which will consist of members of the various charitable and voluntary religious associations associated with the Shwedagon Pagoda, then circle the platform chanting Buddhist mantra and prayers and then will congregate back at the Chan Tha Gyi Tazaung (the big pavilion on the north-west corner of the pagoda) where the venerable member-monks of the pagoda's advisory group are offered "soon", or lunch. The ceremony will end with the sounds of "Sadhu, Sadhu, Sadhu, a joyous exaltation by all the assembled guests to let all creatures in the universe to hear and rejoice in this holy act.

Photos :Sonny Nyein

TAUNGGYI HOTAIR BALLOON FESTIVAL

November is the best time to visit Taunggyi, the capital of Southern Shan State. The Kahtein Holy Robes Presentation Ceremony, the Festival of Lights and the Taunggyi Hotair Balloon Festival occur at the same time on the Fullmoon Day of the Myanmar month of Tazaungmone(November).

As Tazaungmone nears everyone is excited. They are gearing up to compete in the annual Taunggyi Hotair Balloon Festival. The festival is also a competition between the town's various quarters on who can send up the most elaborate and decorated hotair balloons. The competition is divided into 2 parts: the daytime competition and the Nya Mee Gyi or the Big Night Balloons, sent up at night.

The legend goes that Tazaungmone is the fairest of all Myanmar months and the sky is clear. At this time the peole had also finished their harvest and it is time to pay homage to the Sulamuni Pagoda, said to be in the Abode of the Celestial Beings. They construct hotair balloons out of bamboo and locally made mulberry paper(Shan paper) in various shapes and sizes. They most popular would be of course in animal shapes. These are normally sent up during the daytime.The judges would give them points on the originality, the design and the flight characteristics of the competing balloons and decide the winner.

The Nya Mee Gyi balloons are more elaborate. They cost quite a big amount of expenses, some even in hundreds of thousands of Kyats. The organizers bring their contraptions to the competition grounds and set up the balloons to be flown into the night sky. Many are decorated with small lanterns hung on the sides. The judges give points on the originality, the intricate designs on the sides, the pyrotechnical display when aloft etc. And these balloons must also be sent up in an allotted time or be disqualified.

These balloons are really huge. Some would measures in tens of metres in diametre and over 10-20 metres tall. They also carry a load of fireworks. As theses huge balloons ascend toward the stars, the fireworks shoot off in spectacular pyrotechnic display , much to the delight of the onlookers.

Loud cheers erupt as the balloons goes up but the unsuccessful teams stay silent, vowing to do better next year.

Photos by:Sonny Nyein(Swiftwinds)

The Gon Shans Also Celebrate Thingyan

Up on the hazy blue mountains of Eastern Myanmar live the Gon Shan people. Most of them live around Kyaing Tong and that is where the Gon Shan Thingyan(New Year) is normally celebrated.

The story goes that once upon a time there was a very beautiful princess but she was very active sexually. And because of that there was much fighting and sorrow among the people. But when she died, and because of her bad behaviours while a human, she re-incarnated as a frog. Every year at this time of the year she must be married to the King of the Celestial Beings to satisfy her lust and so bring about good rains for the harvest.

The town folks of Kyaing Tong still follow the traditions to this day. On the eve of Thingyan the Auspicious Red Drum is hung in the town centre. It must be beaten the whole 24 hours but only by the members of a particular family which has been doing this as a tradition for generations. Then someone from another family, which had performed this task for generations also, is dressed up as the Thagyamin(King of the Celestial Beings). On the appointed day (normally the last day of Thingyan), the procession, led by the monks and the Thagyamin, winds its way towards the nearby river where a clay statute of the frog princess waits for their arrival. The town folks follow the monks and the Thagyamin and also carry with them a papier mache Thagyamin on a palanquin. On the banks of the river the papier mache Thagyamin and the clay frog princess are symbolically wedded and the procession returns to town and after the customary chanting of Buddhist mantras and sutras the monks the ceremony ends.

photos: Sonny Nyein(Swiftwinds)