MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE

MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE

(WE SHALL PLAY IN THE RAINS)

"Moe Ywa Yin Moe Yay Cho Mae", that is a ditty that every Myanmar child knows. As Myanmar is a monsoonal country and enjoys abundant rains it is not a surprise that all children love playing and splashing about in the rains.

But the rains not only give joy to the children but also bring immense benefit for the farmers. July is the wettest month in Myanmar. It is the middle of the rainy season and all the fields are flooded with water. The ponds and the lakes are also filled with life-giving waters. All the rivers are full. The Ayeyarwady River, the Chindwin Rivers are now broad expenses of water, one bank now invisible from the other. Many of the sand bars that had restricted the riverine traffic had now disappeared as the river rushes down towards its mouth hundreds of miles away to the south. Some of the villages that were on dry land just a few months ago are now isolated islands in the middle of the roaring currents. But the villagers are happy. These raging torrents bring down rich loam that will cover their fields and when the waters recedes after the monsoon the land will again be fertile.

The fields of paddy are now finally planted. Vast rolling green seas of paddy nodding gently in the stiff breeze. The farmers and the oxen had toiled hard to make this happen. A granary to feed the multitudes when they are gathered later in the year. But now, as thunder boomed and lightnings flashed the village children sing with joy under the lashing curtains of rains.

And it is with deep reminiscence that I finally realize that my innocent childhood had gone forever and I will never have that chance to sing my favourite ditty again.

"MOE YWA YIN MOE YAY CHO MAE, MAE MAE LAR YIN NO SO MAE, PE PE LAR YIN OHN THEE KYWE SAR MAE"

Or to make our English speaking friends understand: We will play in the rains and when mother comes we will suckle up to her but when father comes we will ask him to crack open a coconut"

THE COLOURFUL DRESSES OF THE PALAUNG MAIDENS

THE COLOURFUL DRESSES OF THE PALAUNG MAIDENS

by: Harry Hpone Thant

There are more than 130 different ethnic groups making Myanmar their home. And each and every group has its distinctive traditional dresses. The dresses also reflect their beliefs in their origin, which they lovingly tell and re-tell at every occasion.

Palaungs are scattered all over the Shan States. Mostly they engage in the planting and curing of tea leaves. According to some accounts they are distinguished into Ngwe (Silver) and Shwe (Gold) Palaungs. Gold Palaungs live around Kyaukme, Namsan in the Northern Shan State and the majority of the Silver Palaungs make their homes in the Southern and Eastern Shan States. No one can say why they are differentiated as such but one story is that a Shansawbwa (hereditary prince) from the Northern Shan State, married a Palaung girl and showered her with so much gold that they became known as Gold Palaungs. Also most of the Silver Palaungs women wear broad silver bands around their waits as ornamental belts.

And there is also an enchanting story attached to their traditional dresses. But as usual, the story starts with, Once Upon A Time.............

There were seven, young female beautiful Keinnari creatures(half-human and half-bird mythical creature). One day they were splashing about happily at a lake when suddenly a Prince happened upon them. All managed to run away except the youngest, who was caught by his magic lasso. The Prince took the young Keinnari to his palace and to keep her from returning to her native land put her in three tiers of magic belts, a cloth belt, a lacquered cane belt and a silver belt.

The Palaung women dresses still show these ancient beliefs. As the young Keinnari girl was abruptly surprised by the prince she had no time to dress properly. The sarong was hastily pulled up to her breast and the blouse was put on quickly. Not having time to button up properly a jungle thorn was used instead to fasten it.

All these are still evident in the dresses. The sarong is still pulled up high to cover the breasts, the blouse is worn over it but now a safety pin had replaced the jungle thorn. And the three tiers of belts are still worn.

All the Palaung ladies still believe that if they are able to take off all the belts they would gladly fly away to their native Silver Cloud Land.

photos:Sonny Nyein

A FOREST PROTECTED BY NATS(SPIRITS)

A FOREST PROTECTED BY NATS(SPIRITS)

by: Harry Hpone Thant

There is a village by the name of Zee Oh,about 12 kilometres off the main Bagan-Kyaukpadaung Highway. And an old growth forest beside it. A sign posted at the entrance will point the way for inquisitive visitors. This clump of trees is known as the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest and under the protection of the Forestry Department. But it had been under more powerful guardians than a government agency for centuries it seems. It is under the more powerful protection of two brother and sister nats since the Bagan period!

As legends go there was a very beautiful girl, Pan Mya Yin, who live on the territory of the Bagan Kingdom. News of her beauty had spread far and wide inside the Kingdom and the King of Bagan became interested. He summoned her to present herself at his court to be crowned Queen. But the girl was interested in religious pursuits only and do not want to wed the King. So she and her brother, (U) Aung Tin Hla, ran away, came to this place and lived secretly, afraid of the King's fury if he ever found them. Regrettably, they were eventually found by the King and executed. So they became nats and made this clump of old growth forest their home in their supernatural plane of existence.

This forest right in the middle of the central dry zone is unique. It is green and cool with towering trees rustling in the wind under the shadow of Mt.Popa, a stark contrast to the cactus-dotted perimeter. Creepers dangle from many trees, trees that only grow in places where there is much more rain than here. There are even huge banyan trees that only flourish in the wettest regions of the country. The creek beds are moist and cool although there is no water in them. Birds chirp in the high branches. A truly unimaginable place in the hot, dry environment.

There is a village nearby with the same name, Zee Oh. A typical Myanmar village engaged in traditional agriculture; sesame, groundnut and other cash crops typical of the dry zone. The villagers are simple, friendly, and most of all, both religious and superstitious.

At the entrance to the forest is a rudimentary nat shrine for the two nats but no statues. The villagers explained that the nats do not like to have any statues of them, no elaborate offerings too, just some desert flowers would suffice. Many footpaths criss-cross the forest floor. People from surrounding villages use them to get from one village to another. But all will reverently take off their footwear on entry into the cool shade of the forest with a customary kowtow and a silent incantation in the direction of the small rickety shrine.

But what had preserved this old growth forest from destruction and degradation is because of the two nats. The villagers dare not take even one twig out of the forest or break a limb off a tree and offend the nats. If they need firewood they ask for permission to gather the dry branches from the nats. If they need some timber to erect a pandal for an occasion like a wedding or a merit making ceremony they ask the nats' permission to use the produce from the forest. And they must put back every unused parts at the end of the ceremonies. A more powerful and followed edict than any of the rules and regulations enacted by the Forest Department!

Another curious belief of the Zee Oh villagers is that as the young lady nat was so disgusted with the behaviour of the King and his troops she just hates to see any kind of improper behaviour between the genders inside the forest. Couples scrupulously refrain from such acts when they are inside the forest lest they become victims of their ire. Also the nats do not tolerate any offensive language, either inside the forest or even in the village. One villager retold how his hut burned down without any reason after he had quarreled with his parents-in-law the previous night after a drunken bout and used foul language.

Many attested to the author that they had actually seen a pagoda inside the forest when they became disorientated and lost. But later cannot find the way back, as if it was like in a dream or an illusion. The village elders all agreed that despite the vicious battles fought between the Japanese and Allied Armies around this area during WW II and during the civil war that followed in the wake of the country's Independence in 1948, their village was spared because of the supernatural powers of the nats.

Also there is a huge tree in the Zee Oh village, split in the middle and large overhanging branches touching the ground that the local lore tells as being the work of giant elephants that roamed here during ancient times. Now this huge tree and its branches are supported by concrete pillars, courtesy of the Archeology Department.

Zee Oh village is accessible from Bagan by off-road vehicles only. The road follows the deep ruts of the cart tracks, so only vehicles with high ground clearance can drive on it. Visits to the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest and Zee Oh village are day trip programmes from Bagan.

"It is alright for you to keep your shoes on in the forest because you are visitors", the village Abbot assured us when we visited. Our guide also mumbled a soft apology to the guardian nats"These are but ignorant visitors with tender feet. Please allow them to leave their footwear on when entering your area". Apparently, he received an okay because he nodded his head but nevertheless, we took off our footwear lest we offend the nats. So step carefully if you ever visit the Zee Oh Thit Hla Protected Forest!

WE WISH TO SEE OUR SON COME BACK WITH A POT OF GOLD ON HIS HEAD

WE WISH TO SEE OUR SON COME BACK WITH A POT OF GOLD ON HIS HEAD

One of the many incarnations of Lord Buddha was as young man named Thuwunna Thama(or the Golden Youth).

His was a pitiful existence. The family was poor. His two old parents were ill and infirm, as well as blind. The family live in the forest, gathering wood and lived off the land.But the young man , Thuwunna Thama, was ever the dutiful son. He would go into the forest daily and look for food for his two elderly parents.

One day, to his misfortune, he rummaged under an pile of wood where underneath coiled a deadly python. The disturbed python shot his venom into young Thuwunna Thama and he fell into a coma.

The day grew old. The two old parents waited for their son who was late and became worried.Having no means to call for help they solemnly made vows to heaven that their son, Thuwunna Thama, had always been a good son. He had taken care of his elderly parents conscientiously and if these words be true, may the heavens help them.

Their honest words reached the Abode of the Celestials and the throne of the King of the Celestials (Sakra) became hard as marble. Sakra investigated the cause of this phenomenon and saw the plight of the two infirm couple and he transformed himself into human form, came down to earth and asked the two old persons what would be their earnest wish if their sights were to be restored.

Both of them replied "We would like to see our son, Thuwunna Thama, come back to us with a pot of gold on his head"!

Sakra granted their wish not only restoring their sights but also he revived their son Thuwunna Thama.

And the two elderly couple saw their son emerge from the forest with a pot of gold on his head.

This beautiful story teaches us that the children has the moral duty to look after their own parents with pure hearts and enduring love, caring for them in their twilight years, paying back with gratitude, the love and sacrifices the parents had showed to them in their formative years. And it is the wish of every parents to see the children prosper in the world.

But sadly,the moral of this story is getting lost in the daily race after wealth and fame in this modern world.

IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY

IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY.

Once upon a time in one of his many incarnations Lord Gautama Buddha was king of a herd of elephants. The herd lived happily in the mythical Himawunta Forest. The Elephant King's name was Saardan and he was pure white. Also he had two elephant queens; Maha Thubadda and Sula Thubadda.

One day while the herd was playing on the banks of a lake, Saardan, the Elephant King playfully gave Sula Thubadda a bouquet of flowers. But as luck might have it it was infested with red ants. Sula Thubadda became very angry and harboured ill-will toward the Elephant King and vowed that in her next incarnation she be born to extract revenge for the slight she suffered. As the story goes, Sula Thubadda died and was reborn and consequently became Queen of King Bramadutta in the Kingdom of Varanasi.

Then she remembered her vows to take revenge upon Saardan, the Elephant King and started planning. She pestered the King that she wants to wear ivory earrings from the great tusks of Saardan , the Elephant King who lived inside Himawunta Forest. Finally the king gave in and summoned a famous hunter, Thaw Note Hto, to bring him the tusks of the great white elephant.

The hunter travelled to Himawunta Forest for 7 years, 7 months and 7 days until he got to the lake where the great Saadan Elephant King and his herd bath daily. Then he dug a large hole in the earth where the great elephant usually stands after coming out of the water, covered it and hid inside with just a small hole to shoot his arrow through.

The unsuspecting Saardan Elephant King came out of the water and as he always normally do stood above the hole where the hunter hid. Thaw Note Hto, shot his arrow through the small aperture and the force was so great that the arrow pierced the body and came out of the elephant's back. The herd was terror-stricken and run off in all directions to find the killer but the elephant king deduced that as the arrow came from beneath his navel the archer must be under him, hidden underground. He was then able to expose the hunter and asked him why he had shot him as they had never been enemies before. The hunter Thaw Note Hto replied" It is the Queen who wished to make ivory earrings out of your tusks and it was the king who sent me on this errand. And I am but an instrument of their scheming. Out of these three co-conspirators is it fair that I, the simple luckless and ignorant servant, am to be singled out and penalized for this hideous deed!"

The elephant king in his magnanimity not only spared the hunter's life but also sawed off the two tusks himself for the hunter to take back to the Queen.

The great hunter, Thaw Note Hto, arrived back at the palace and presented the two tusks to the Queen, whom on seeing the proof of her former partner's love for her fell down dead on the spot with remorse.

This is one of the greatest stories from the life of Lord Buddha in one of his incarnations. But the words of hunter, Thaw Note Hto, had become a famous cliche among young couples whenever they want to expressed their feelings of unjust treatment by third parties.

"IT WAS THE QUEEN WHO WISH FOR THE IVORY"

ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

Once upon a time, in a small village far from Tagaung, a city state up north on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, a young lad by the name of Pauk Kyaing was quickly growing up. Unlike others of his generation he was unique. He wants to know about other places, he is always inquisitive and seeking answers and he is always alert and vigilant.

Then he started on an epic journey from his village to see the world. Arriving at Tagaung he saw that people were excited about one thing or other. He asked about the cause of their excitement and got back the answer that the kingdom had lost another ruler and there would be an occasion to select a new king. This would be done by sending a gilded royal carriage around the area with a wish that it finds a suitable candidate. Pauk Kyaing was tired so he quickly fell asleep inside the nearby forest but was awaken suddenly.Surrounding him were courtiers of court and they were asking him to become their king. The Gilt Royal Carriage was waiting to carry him to the palace!

Pauk Kyaing accepted the offer and come night time he started wondering about the mysterious deaths of his predecessors. He remembered what his mentor, the village Abbot had taught him. He had travelled and now is in Tagaung. the second teaching had made him ask questions and he had got answers about the sudden deaths of the previous kings. Now what about the third teaching of his mentor? The third that admonished him to be vigilant. What might that be, he thought? The deaths could not be natural. And every death was on the bridal night, inside the royal bed chambers. The Queen must be involved, was his conclusion. He must be vigilant.

So secretly he brought the trunk of a banana plant and laid it beside the Queen and made it as if it was a sleeping human. But he himself hid behind a pillar with a sword in hand.

The night became quiet. Nobody stirred. Midnight. There was a stirring somewhere inside the bed chambers and the curtains parted. A hissing sound and a giant Naga (a mythical serpent with supernatural powers to transform themselves into human forms at will) appeared. Seeing a man lying beside his beloved queen it became agitated and struck out with its fangs. So that was what happened with the previous kings, Pauk Kyaing now understood. The Naga was the secret lover of the queen and murdered everybody who dare to sleep with his lover. But this time it was a different story. The Naga's fangs became entangled in the fibres of the banana stem. He could not extricate them. The Naga was trapped. Pauk Kyaing came out of hiding and slew the Naga with his sword and was saved and the story ends ........................................and they lived happily ever after!

So, remember Maung Pauk Kyaing and his credo: Thwa Par Myar Hka Yee Yauk, Mae Bar Myar Sa Kar ya, Ma Eight Ma Nay A Thet Shay!

Or for our English readers to understand: Start travelling and you shall see new places, ask and you shall have answers, be vigilant and you shall live long.

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

Myanmar is dependent on the monsoon rains for growing rice, the staple food for her people. The farmers depend on the rains to plant the paddy and villages rely on the rains to replenish their ponds and lakes where water is taken for drinking, cooking and other household chores. Normally the black rain clouds gather above the Bay of Bengal by mid May and by June monsoon rains are in full swing in the delta. Then the farmers get ready to go to the paddy fields. But sometimes the rains are late.

When the rains are late there are several ways to make the rains come. No modern method of seeding the clouds, no. But more ancient and, believe it or not, reliable ways are used. The town people ask the monks to recite the "Nga Yant Min Sutta" and circling around the town.This Holy Sutta is supposed to be uttered by Lord Buddha in one of his earlier Lives when he was incarnated as a Nga Yant(a species of butter fish). Reciting this sutta is thought to be conducive to bring the black rain clouds to pour their loads on to the parched land.

Near Mandalay, looking towards the East, is a solitary hill, named Yankin Taung. where Lord Buddha was believed to have lived there in one of his previous incarnations as a nga yant. Wheezing up uncountable steps will get one up the top of this hill. There are many Buddhist monasteries on the top as well as natural springs. And there is also a deep cut in the hill, called nga yant dwin(a hole for the nga yant) where a big nga yant fish statue is seen. Pilgrims paste gold leaves on this statue and pray to it.

Another option to bring the rains is more fun. Teams gather to play tug-of-war between them, with appropriate offerings to the Rain God Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa Nat. This simply consist of the customary coconut and three hands of banana, plus some eugenia leaves as offering. The nat kadaw(spirit medium) pleads to the nat for his intervention before the competition. Everybody cheers their favourite teams with much clapping and encouragements.

But somebody still has yet to explain the co-relation between the tug-of-war and the Nat Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa. However, be it coincidence or not, rains had fallen soon after these ceremonies had completed.

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

by:Harry Hpone Thant

Kani is a small town on the western bank of the Chindwin River. It is inhabited mainly by Myanmar people and supposed to be set up since the Bagan period.The main occupation of the town people is agriculture.It is also believed to be the origin of the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat (Lord of the White Horse of Kani).

As one approaches the town from the south by boat up the Chindwin River, a steep cliff is visible on the left hand side while the right side is flat agricultural land. And this cliff face is an important historical landmark that makes Kani unique.

Once upon a time during the early Bagan period this small community was under a governor appointed by the court at Bagan. One of the main duties of the governor was to travel to Bagan annually to pay his tributes and pledge allegiance to the King. Being far away from the King's centre of power the governor slowly began to drift way and his power grew. He began to miss his annual visits and the King became suspicious of his loyalty. So the King sent an army to bring back the recalcitrant governor back to Bagan for punishment.

However, Kani was situated on a very strategic place. With the swift flowing Chindwin river and the steep cliff acting as natural barriers the town was difficult to conquer. It withstood all assaults by the King's troops. After a prolonged siege the King's army was ordered to withdraw without achieving any success.

The town's inhabitants were jubilant when they saw the attackers withdrawing. One of the town's women became so jubilant that she went up the cliff and taunted the retreating forces with not only profanities but also with vulgar gestures. The King's troop were so angry and insulted by the actions of this woman that they turned back and attacked the town with renewed ferocity. This time, however, the town fell. The governor,sensing that he would find no mercy at the hands of his overlord, tied a strip of cloth over his warhorse's eyes, rode up to the cliff and jumped into the Chindwin River and became a nat(spirit). And so was born the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin nat.

Even to this day the town pays homage to Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat annually in a nat dance. The hereditary spirit mediums(nat kadaws) dance and pay homage to the Nat and ask for his patronage and intervention, to make the town safe from natural disasters, have a good harvest and generally look after its wellbeing.

This is but another example of ancient beliefs that had been lovingly preserved and of customs followed even into the 21st century.

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

By: Hpone Thant

Once upon a time, there was a very strong blacksmith who lived at a small town called Tagaung, on the upper reaches of the Ayeyarawaddy River, north of Bagan. His name was U Tint De (Mr. Handsome).He was also a very popular man. Then the King of Tagaung heard about his feats and was afraid that one day U Tint De might usurp his kingdom. So he sent words to U Tint De that he wish to make his beautiful sister, Thon Ban Hla, his Queen and also invited U Tint De to come and live at his palace.

But one day, on one pretext or another, U Tint De was condemned and set to be burned at the stake. When his sister saw the brother being burned at the stake she rushed out of the palace and jumped into the fire. The King tried to hold on to his Queen but was able to save only her head from the inferno. So, to cut the story short, both U Tint De and his sister, Thon Ban Hla became nats(spirits).

However, to spite the King, the nats haunted the Sagar tree where they were put to death. Every creature which came into its shadow died. The King had it cut down and floated down the Ayeyarwaddy River where it came to rest at Bagan. The Bagan King heard about the beached tree and after consultations with his royal astrologers made statues out of the Sagar tree to be worshipped by his subjects. Here the story became blurred. Nobody can tell for sure how U Tint De became the guardian nat or spirit of a house. Nobody can say why he became the chief of all the official 37 nats that are said to reside at Mt. Popa. But one thing for sure is that in almost all Myanmar houses in a corner near the Buddha Images(but a bit lower) one will see a coconut hanging on the wall. It will have a red and white band, resembling a headcloth, around it and a fan standing beside.

Most Myanmar believes that U Tint De guards the house against all evil. He is the guardian of the house. If there is a death in the house the coconut is taken out of the house to be hung elsewhere on the road. This is to let the butterfly spirit of the deceased have free access into the house until after a merit making lunch(soon) is offered to the monks after a week and free the butterfly spirit to roam freely. Otherwise U Tint De would bar entrance to the deceased’s butterfly spirit. After the traditional lunch(soon) is offered to the monks and to friends and relatives of the deceased a new coconut is brought back into the house for U Tint De to reside again.

Also the coconut must be replaced if the water inside dries out or the top part becomes loose. Otherwise it will bring bad luck to the household. Then before the Myanmar Lent begins in the month of Waso(June/July) and at the end of it is Thadingyut(September/October)the coconut must be replaced with a new, green one.

The coconut has to be screened from light too because U Tint De was burned at the stake and he hates heat. And it is a common belief that coconut water is fed to the burn victims to ease the pain. The housewife would also fan the coconut as a daily ritual or to ask for any supernatural intervention to overcome a difficult situation.

For us living in the 21^st century these superstitious rituals might seem strange and quaint but they make up the character and beliefs of the Myanmar people making them unique in this world. An instant world with many ready made answers on Google!

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

Bagan was born on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River in the central part of present day Myanmar. The powerful City-State rose on the east bank of the Ayeyarwady River in the 9th century and was the birthplace of modern day Myanmar State and Theravada Buddhism.

A traditional verse says "Kya Oh An Bagan Ti(which if transposed into numerals corresponds to the date of the establishment of the Bagan Empire).There were many kings that reigned there. Legends tell us that there were 55 Kings who ruled in Bagan but recorded history began only after the reign of King Anawrahta(1044-1077 A.D) who consolidated his kingdom into one of the most powerful city-states of that time. Bagan retreated into history after King Narathihapati (Tayoke Pye Min) fled the capital with the onslaught of the Mongols in 1287 A.D.

In the Niddesa Parabeik (a loosely binded book made of palm leaves on which the ancients record significant occasions) it was recorded that Arimaddanapura or Pauk kan Pyi gyi(the traditional name of Bagan) was established by King Pyinbya in 849 A.D, and referred to two palace sites inside the walled city. The palace of Pinbya Min was located at 144 Ta(a traditional Myanmar measure of distance) to the west of the Tharaba Gate. The Parabeik also recorded that King Kyan Sit Tha(1084-1112 A.D), who assumed the crown afterAnawrahta, also started a palace for himself in 1101 A.D and it took a year to finish it. On completion of his palace the King set up four stone inscription pillars to record his deed but with the passage of time the inscriptions were broken into pieces. Miraculously, however, all the pieces were recovered from near the Tharaba Gate and are now housed inside the Bagan Museum.

Starting from 2003, the Myanmar Archaeological Department had began excavations at the Bagan Palace site. Altogether 16 squares have been unearthed. The excavations also unearthed large systematically built structures made of brick and one small brick structure of 85 metres aligned north to south. One 40 metres long brick wall stretching from east to west two brick walls, brick floor, brick gutter and brick circles were also unearthed. There were many rows of such brick circles, each circle with smaller circles adjacent to it. Regrettably nothing was found of the Palace itself except for numerous earthen bowls,potsherds,glazed potsherds, earthen pots, terracotta discs, iron swords, brass rings and other assorted artefacts.

Architects have been able to reconstruct the layout of the Palace and construct a prototype based on the excavated physical evidence. The reconstructed Palace is now open to visitors.

Acknowledgement: Thanks are due to U Khin Aung Htun, and the G.M of Tharaba Gate Hotel for the basic information and photos.