ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

ASK AND YOU SHALL HAVE ANSWERS

Once upon a time, in a small village far from Tagaung, a city state up north on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River, a young lad by the name of Pauk Kyaing was quickly growing up. Unlike others of his generation he was unique. He wants to know about other places, he is always inquisitive and seeking answers and he is always alert and vigilant.

Then he started on an epic journey from his village to see the world. Arriving at Tagaung he saw that people were excited about one thing or other. He asked about the cause of their excitement and got back the answer that the kingdom had lost another ruler and there would be an occasion to select a new king. This would be done by sending a gilded royal carriage around the area with a wish that it finds a suitable candidate. Pauk Kyaing was tired so he quickly fell asleep inside the nearby forest but was awaken suddenly.Surrounding him were courtiers of court and they were asking him to become their king. The Gilt Royal Carriage was waiting to carry him to the palace!

Pauk Kyaing accepted the offer and come night time he started wondering about the mysterious deaths of his predecessors. He remembered what his mentor, the village Abbot had taught him. He had travelled and now is in Tagaung. the second teaching had made him ask questions and he had got answers about the sudden deaths of the previous kings. Now what about the third teaching of his mentor? The third that admonished him to be vigilant. What might that be, he thought? The deaths could not be natural. And every death was on the bridal night, inside the royal bed chambers. The Queen must be involved, was his conclusion. He must be vigilant.

So secretly he brought the trunk of a banana plant and laid it beside the Queen and made it as if it was a sleeping human. But he himself hid behind a pillar with a sword in hand.

The night became quiet. Nobody stirred. Midnight. There was a stirring somewhere inside the bed chambers and the curtains parted. A hissing sound and a giant Naga (a mythical serpent with supernatural powers to transform themselves into human forms at will) appeared. Seeing a man lying beside his beloved queen it became agitated and struck out with its fangs. So that was what happened with the previous kings, Pauk Kyaing now understood. The Naga was the secret lover of the queen and murdered everybody who dare to sleep with his lover. But this time it was a different story. The Naga's fangs became entangled in the fibres of the banana stem. He could not extricate them. The Naga was trapped. Pauk Kyaing came out of hiding and slew the Naga with his sword and was saved and the story ends ........................................and they lived happily ever after!

So, remember Maung Pauk Kyaing and his credo: Thwa Par Myar Hka Yee Yauk, Mae Bar Myar Sa Kar ya, Ma Eight Ma Nay A Thet Shay!

Or for our English readers to understand: Start travelling and you shall see new places, ask and you shall have answers, be vigilant and you shall live long.

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

PRAYING TO THE RAIN GOD

Myanmar is dependent on the monsoon rains for growing rice, the staple food for her people. The farmers depend on the rains to plant the paddy and villages rely on the rains to replenish their ponds and lakes where water is taken for drinking, cooking and other household chores. Normally the black rain clouds gather above the Bay of Bengal by mid May and by June monsoon rains are in full swing in the delta. Then the farmers get ready to go to the paddy fields. But sometimes the rains are late.

When the rains are late there are several ways to make the rains come. No modern method of seeding the clouds, no. But more ancient and, believe it or not, reliable ways are used. The town people ask the monks to recite the "Nga Yant Min Sutta" and circling around the town.This Holy Sutta is supposed to be uttered by Lord Buddha in one of his earlier Lives when he was incarnated as a Nga Yant(a species of butter fish). Reciting this sutta is thought to be conducive to bring the black rain clouds to pour their loads on to the parched land.

Near Mandalay, looking towards the East, is a solitary hill, named Yankin Taung. where Lord Buddha was believed to have lived there in one of his previous incarnations as a nga yant. Wheezing up uncountable steps will get one up the top of this hill. There are many Buddhist monasteries on the top as well as natural springs. And there is also a deep cut in the hill, called nga yant dwin(a hole for the nga yant) where a big nga yant fish statue is seen. Pilgrims paste gold leaves on this statue and pray to it.

Another option to bring the rains is more fun. Teams gather to play tug-of-war between them, with appropriate offerings to the Rain God Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa Nat. This simply consist of the customary coconut and three hands of banana, plus some eugenia leaves as offering. The nat kadaw(spirit medium) pleads to the nat for his intervention before the competition. Everybody cheers their favourite teams with much clapping and encouragements.

But somebody still has yet to explain the co-relation between the tug-of-war and the Nat Moe Khaung Kyaw Swa. However, be it coincidence or not, rains had fallen soon after these ceremonies had completed.

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

THE LORD OF THE WHITE HORSE OF KANI

by:Harry Hpone Thant

Kani is a small town on the western bank of the Chindwin River. It is inhabited mainly by Myanmar people and supposed to be set up since the Bagan period.The main occupation of the town people is agriculture.It is also believed to be the origin of the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat (Lord of the White Horse of Kani).

As one approaches the town from the south by boat up the Chindwin River, a steep cliff is visible on the left hand side while the right side is flat agricultural land. And this cliff face is an important historical landmark that makes Kani unique.

Once upon a time during the early Bagan period this small community was under a governor appointed by the court at Bagan. One of the main duties of the governor was to travel to Bagan annually to pay his tributes and pledge allegiance to the King. Being far away from the King's centre of power the governor slowly began to drift way and his power grew. He began to miss his annual visits and the King became suspicious of his loyalty. So the King sent an army to bring back the recalcitrant governor back to Bagan for punishment.

However, Kani was situated on a very strategic place. With the swift flowing Chindwin river and the steep cliff acting as natural barriers the town was difficult to conquer. It withstood all assaults by the King's troops. After a prolonged siege the King's army was ordered to withdraw without achieving any success.

The town's inhabitants were jubilant when they saw the attackers withdrawing. One of the town's women became so jubilant that she went up the cliff and taunted the retreating forces with not only profanities but also with vulgar gestures. The King's troop were so angry and insulted by the actions of this woman that they turned back and attacked the town with renewed ferocity. This time, however, the town fell. The governor,sensing that he would find no mercy at the hands of his overlord, tied a strip of cloth over his warhorse's eyes, rode up to the cliff and jumped into the Chindwin River and became a nat(spirit). And so was born the legend of the Kani Myinbyu Shin nat.

Even to this day the town pays homage to Kani Myinbyu Shin Nat annually in a nat dance. The hereditary spirit mediums(nat kadaws) dance and pay homage to the Nat and ask for his patronage and intervention, to make the town safe from natural disasters, have a good harvest and generally look after its wellbeing.

This is but another example of ancient beliefs that had been lovingly preserved and of customs followed even into the 21st century.

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

WHY DO WE HANG A COCONUT INSIDE OUR HOUSES

By: Hpone Thant

Once upon a time, there was a very strong blacksmith who lived at a small town called Tagaung, on the upper reaches of the Ayeyarawaddy River, north of Bagan. His name was U Tint De (Mr. Handsome).He was also a very popular man. Then the King of Tagaung heard about his feats and was afraid that one day U Tint De might usurp his kingdom. So he sent words to U Tint De that he wish to make his beautiful sister, Thon Ban Hla, his Queen and also invited U Tint De to come and live at his palace.

But one day, on one pretext or another, U Tint De was condemned and set to be burned at the stake. When his sister saw the brother being burned at the stake she rushed out of the palace and jumped into the fire. The King tried to hold on to his Queen but was able to save only her head from the inferno. So, to cut the story short, both U Tint De and his sister, Thon Ban Hla became nats(spirits).

However, to spite the King, the nats haunted the Sagar tree where they were put to death. Every creature which came into its shadow died. The King had it cut down and floated down the Ayeyarwaddy River where it came to rest at Bagan. The Bagan King heard about the beached tree and after consultations with his royal astrologers made statues out of the Sagar tree to be worshipped by his subjects. Here the story became blurred. Nobody can tell for sure how U Tint De became the guardian nat or spirit of a house. Nobody can say why he became the chief of all the official 37 nats that are said to reside at Mt. Popa. But one thing for sure is that in almost all Myanmar houses in a corner near the Buddha Images(but a bit lower) one will see a coconut hanging on the wall. It will have a red and white band, resembling a headcloth, around it and a fan standing beside.

Most Myanmar believes that U Tint De guards the house against all evil. He is the guardian of the house. If there is a death in the house the coconut is taken out of the house to be hung elsewhere on the road. This is to let the butterfly spirit of the deceased have free access into the house until after a merit making lunch(soon) is offered to the monks after a week and free the butterfly spirit to roam freely. Otherwise U Tint De would bar entrance to the deceased’s butterfly spirit. After the traditional lunch(soon) is offered to the monks and to friends and relatives of the deceased a new coconut is brought back into the house for U Tint De to reside again.

Also the coconut must be replaced if the water inside dries out or the top part becomes loose. Otherwise it will bring bad luck to the household. Then before the Myanmar Lent begins in the month of Waso(June/July) and at the end of it is Thadingyut(September/October)the coconut must be replaced with a new, green one.

The coconut has to be screened from light too because U Tint De was burned at the stake and he hates heat. And it is a common belief that coconut water is fed to the burn victims to ease the pain. The housewife would also fan the coconut as a daily ritual or to ask for any supernatural intervention to overcome a difficult situation.

For us living in the 21^st century these superstitious rituals might seem strange and quaint but they make up the character and beliefs of the Myanmar people making them unique in this world. An instant world with many ready made answers on Google!

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

KING KYAN SIT THA'S PALACE

Bagan was born on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River in the central part of present day Myanmar. The powerful City-State rose on the east bank of the Ayeyarwady River in the 9th century and was the birthplace of modern day Myanmar State and Theravada Buddhism.

A traditional verse says "Kya Oh An Bagan Ti(which if transposed into numerals corresponds to the date of the establishment of the Bagan Empire).There were many kings that reigned there. Legends tell us that there were 55 Kings who ruled in Bagan but recorded history began only after the reign of King Anawrahta(1044-1077 A.D) who consolidated his kingdom into one of the most powerful city-states of that time. Bagan retreated into history after King Narathihapati (Tayoke Pye Min) fled the capital with the onslaught of the Mongols in 1287 A.D.

In the Niddesa Parabeik (a loosely binded book made of palm leaves on which the ancients record significant occasions) it was recorded that Arimaddanapura or Pauk kan Pyi gyi(the traditional name of Bagan) was established by King Pyinbya in 849 A.D, and referred to two palace sites inside the walled city. The palace of Pinbya Min was located at 144 Ta(a traditional Myanmar measure of distance) to the west of the Tharaba Gate. The Parabeik also recorded that King Kyan Sit Tha(1084-1112 A.D), who assumed the crown afterAnawrahta, also started a palace for himself in 1101 A.D and it took a year to finish it. On completion of his palace the King set up four stone inscription pillars to record his deed but with the passage of time the inscriptions were broken into pieces. Miraculously, however, all the pieces were recovered from near the Tharaba Gate and are now housed inside the Bagan Museum.

Starting from 2003, the Myanmar Archaeological Department had began excavations at the Bagan Palace site. Altogether 16 squares have been unearthed. The excavations also unearthed large systematically built structures made of brick and one small brick structure of 85 metres aligned north to south. One 40 metres long brick wall stretching from east to west two brick walls, brick floor, brick gutter and brick circles were also unearthed. There were many rows of such brick circles, each circle with smaller circles adjacent to it. Regrettably nothing was found of the Palace itself except for numerous earthen bowls,potsherds,glazed potsherds, earthen pots, terracotta discs, iron swords, brass rings and other assorted artefacts.

Architects have been able to reconstruct the layout of the Palace and construct a prototype based on the excavated physical evidence. The reconstructed Palace is now open to visitors.

Acknowledgement: Thanks are due to U Khin Aung Htun, and the G.M of Tharaba Gate Hotel for the basic information and photos.

AS THE BLACK FACE WEEPS

"The black face will weep and the dead shall come to life". That usually means that the black monsoon clouds has gathered to bring the much needed rain on the parched land and the dead vegetation and the hibernating animals, like the frogs, will come to life again.

The monsoon rains are a blessing to our motherland. The rain clouds gather far away in the Bay of Bengal to bring life-giving water to our country. Vaulting above the high Rakhine Ranges and sweeping across the flat Ayeyarwaddy delta, the black rain clouds pour down to bring back to life the dry paddy fields, fill our ponds and rivers with nourishing water.

As the rivers and the ponds fill with water the farmers get ready to begin their work. Oxen are readied, the ploughs cleaned. But the farmers are happy. They are the true sons of the earth.

The land will once more be green again. Vast acres of paddy fields to feed the people of Myanmar and to fill the granaries with food. Typical scenes at these times would be a solitary farmer behind a pair of oxen tilling his land under the lashing rains, his dear wife and children waiting under the shade of the big rain tree, waiting for him to finish his work and join them for lunch. A simple farmers' lunch, nothing elaborate. Heaps of steaming rice, a lump of ngapi ( fermented fish ), a clear veggie soup made from the vegetables found on the land near their modest hut. A smoked fish, from the catch the farmer had caught in the streams the previous night, would be a treat for them. At another plot would be a bevy of young girls transplanting the young paddy from the nurseries.Smiling faces, dabbed with the yellowish paste of thanahka, a natural sunscreen from the thanahka plant. They are also happy with their work. They know also that it is an important job. Unless the young paddies are planted carefully they might not ripen into golden stalks heavy with rice grains. Their songs float on the air despite the heavy monsoon rains that pelt them mercilessly. The peals of thunder and streaks of lightning forming a perfect background to their singing. Those would be the typical scenes in all the farming communities in Myanmar.And nights would be filled with the sounds of the frogs, came back to life.

And we pray that the rains be heavy, filling our fields, our ponds and rivers with life-giving waters

THE KAMBAWZATHADI PALACE

It was the time of powerful Kings and valiant heroes, epic battles and marvelous palaces. In the late 15th century Myanmar was in turmoil. The Bamars were concentrated around Innwa in the central regions of the country and the Mons were in the lower part. A series of bitter fighting that lasted for 40 years wrecked the countryside. Many fled to Taungoo, at that time a Bamar outpost not far from the Mon capital of Bago(Pegu). Taungoo became strong and contested the Mons'rule and after the defeat of the Mons, the Bamar Kings from Taungoo had founded the Hanthawaddy Dynasty(first it was called the Taungoo Dynasty) by 1491. King Mingyi Nyo was the patriarch of this line of kings but the two most powerful monarchs of this period were King Tabin Shwe Hti(1515-1551) and King Ba Yint Naung(1551-1582).

Tabin Shwe Hti, named because he had one strand of golden hair on his head, came down often from his Royal Capital of Taungoo to fight with the Mon armies of Bago. But one tale that went into history was his daring challenge to have a Royal Ear-Piercing Ceremony on the platform of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda at Bago, right under the nose of his enemy.

But the King that really made history and established the 2nd Myanmar Empire was the brother-in-law of King Tabin Shwe Hti. His name was Bayint Naung or the King's elder brother. He became King of the Hanthawaddy Dynasty after King Tabin Shwe Hti. He fought to expand his Empire. At its height the 2nd Myanmar Empire included almost all areas of present day Myanmar as well as parts of Manipur in present day India, Chiang mai and Ayudhaya in Thailand. His Empire also went as far away as Vientien in Loas(known at that time as Linzin). But what he is more remembered is his grand Kambawzathadi Palace in Bago.

After the consolidation of his Kingdom King Bayint Naung(also referred to as Ba Yint Naung Kyaw Htin Nawrahta in some history text books) decided to build a palace for himself. Construction was said to have started in 1553. The plan called for construction of the palace on the south of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda with two courtyards. The Inner Courtyard would have 6 main buildings plus other smaller complexes, about 70 of them in total. Then there would also be an outer courtyard to house the other members of the royal retinue.

The Main Audience Hall, where he would receive his subordinate lords on their annual homage paying ceremonies and to be use for all official ceremonies, the Treasury, Sleeping Quarters for his Chief Queen and other royal consorts and concubines would be in the inner court. His favourite daughter Princess Raja Datu Kalaya was to have her own accommodations also. Even the Royal White Elephant would have his own stable as well as pens for the other fighting war elephants. The Palace was finished in 1553.

The various lords and governors of the provinces were commanded by the Court to contribute building materials for the palace. According to ancient records discovered there were 222 Teak pillars used in the construction of the Main Audience Hall, all contributions from the lords and other courtiers of the court. Some of these pillars can be seen inside a shed by the side of the reconstructed Main Audience Hall. Some stumps even have names scratched on the bases, presumably of the lord who had sent it to the palace construction. These pillars were unearthed not very long ago during excavations for recontruction of the Palace by the government in1990 and are supposed to be from the gutted Royal Palace which fell victims to its enemies in 1599.

Caesar Frediricke, a Venetian merchant who visited Bago during its glorious days, said, " The King's Palace is in the middle of the Citie, made in the form of a walled Castle, with ditches full of water around about it, the Lodgings within are made of wood all over gilded, with fine pinnacles, and very costly worke, covered with plates of gold". Another Portuguese merchant named Souza also described the palace as" even the lowliest room was covered with gold and murals. There were roofs made of gold sheets on some of the buildings and in some rooms there were life-size gold statues of the King and his Queens studded with gemstones".

But all that glitters had come to an end in 1599. The magnificent Kambawzathadi Palace, with its shimmering gilded roofs was torched and the mighty Hanthawaddy Empire was destroyed by invading armies.

Now only the re-constructed Main Audience Hall and the Kings's Sleeping Quarters, the Bamayathana Hall (Bee Throne Hall), stands as mute tribute to the powerful old days.

THE HOLY MONTH OF KASON

"The land dries up in Tagu but all is parched in Kason". That is the saying in Myanmar as the sun scorch the countryside with its blazing heat. The village ponds are dry and the rivers are low. But soon there will be a light sprinkling of rains. Not the heavy downpours of the monsoonal months but enough to let the mango buds make their appearance. They are the mango showers, alerting the farmers to get ready for the new planting season and giving the cityfolks the promise of the taste of the sweet tasting exotic mango fruits.

But the Myanmar month of Kason ( May) is also one of the most important months in Myanmar Buddhist chronology.

It is associated with the FOUR GREAT HAPPENINGS in Lord Gautama Buddha's Life.

The first is that He received the prophesy that He will become Lord Buddha in his future life.

The second is that He was born on the Fullmoon Day of Kason

The third is that He attained Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree(Ficus religiosa) on this day.

The fourth is that He "entered Nirvana (died)" on this day.

And in all the Buddhist countries of South East Asia this month is regarded as one of the most auspicious month in the Buddhist calendar.

In Myanmar this Fullmoon Day of Kason(May) is celebrated all over the country. The most common celebration is to water the Bodhi tree inside the precincts of pagodas and monasteries. As we believe that Lord Gautama Buddha attained his Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree people regard these trees as symbolic icons of worship. They gather in procession and bring water to be poured on the roots so that the tree should survive the hot summer heat.

The grand celebration of the Kason Holy Day is elaborately celebrated at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. The Pagoda Trustees organizes an official ceremony at the main Bodhi tree on the South East corner of the pagoda's platform. Youths dressed as mythical Celestial Beings, some in the costumes of Sakra, the King of the Celestials, others as Brahmas(other inhabitants of the Celestial Abode), garudas(mythical birds) and dragons lead the procession of devotees. The devotees, all dressed in sombre dark brown sarongs and white shirts and blouses, each with a pot of cooling water in their hands approach the Bodhi tree and pour water on it. This procession, which will consist of members of the various charitable and voluntary religious associations associated with the Shwedagon Pagoda, then circle the platform chanting Buddhist mantra and prayers and then will congregate back at the Chan Tha Gyi Tazaung (the big pavilion on the north-west corner of the pagoda) where the venerable member-monks of the pagoda's advisory group are offered "soon", or lunch. The ceremony will end with the sounds of "Sadhu, Sadhu, Sadhu, a joyous exaltation by all the assembled guests to let all creatures in the universe to hear and rejoice in this holy act.

Photos :Sonny Nyein

TAUNGGYI HOTAIR BALLOON FESTIVAL

November is the best time to visit Taunggyi, the capital of Southern Shan State. The Kahtein Holy Robes Presentation Ceremony, the Festival of Lights and the Taunggyi Hotair Balloon Festival occur at the same time on the Fullmoon Day of the Myanmar month of Tazaungmone(November).

As Tazaungmone nears everyone is excited. They are gearing up to compete in the annual Taunggyi Hotair Balloon Festival. The festival is also a competition between the town's various quarters on who can send up the most elaborate and decorated hotair balloons. The competition is divided into 2 parts: the daytime competition and the Nya Mee Gyi or the Big Night Balloons, sent up at night.

The legend goes that Tazaungmone is the fairest of all Myanmar months and the sky is clear. At this time the peole had also finished their harvest and it is time to pay homage to the Sulamuni Pagoda, said to be in the Abode of the Celestial Beings. They construct hotair balloons out of bamboo and locally made mulberry paper(Shan paper) in various shapes and sizes. They most popular would be of course in animal shapes. These are normally sent up during the daytime.The judges would give them points on the originality, the design and the flight characteristics of the competing balloons and decide the winner.

The Nya Mee Gyi balloons are more elaborate. They cost quite a big amount of expenses, some even in hundreds of thousands of Kyats. The organizers bring their contraptions to the competition grounds and set up the balloons to be flown into the night sky. Many are decorated with small lanterns hung on the sides. The judges give points on the originality, the intricate designs on the sides, the pyrotechnical display when aloft etc. And these balloons must also be sent up in an allotted time or be disqualified.

These balloons are really huge. Some would measures in tens of metres in diametre and over 10-20 metres tall. They also carry a load of fireworks. As theses huge balloons ascend toward the stars, the fireworks shoot off in spectacular pyrotechnic display , much to the delight of the onlookers.

Loud cheers erupt as the balloons goes up but the unsuccessful teams stay silent, vowing to do better next year.

Photos by:Sonny Nyein(Swiftwinds)

The Gon Shans Also Celebrate Thingyan

Up on the hazy blue mountains of Eastern Myanmar live the Gon Shan people. Most of them live around Kyaing Tong and that is where the Gon Shan Thingyan(New Year) is normally celebrated.

The story goes that once upon a time there was a very beautiful princess but she was very active sexually. And because of that there was much fighting and sorrow among the people. But when she died, and because of her bad behaviours while a human, she re-incarnated as a frog. Every year at this time of the year she must be married to the King of the Celestial Beings to satisfy her lust and so bring about good rains for the harvest.

The town folks of Kyaing Tong still follow the traditions to this day. On the eve of Thingyan the Auspicious Red Drum is hung in the town centre. It must be beaten the whole 24 hours but only by the members of a particular family which has been doing this as a tradition for generations. Then someone from another family, which had performed this task for generations also, is dressed up as the Thagyamin(King of the Celestial Beings). On the appointed day (normally the last day of Thingyan), the procession, led by the monks and the Thagyamin, winds its way towards the nearby river where a clay statute of the frog princess waits for their arrival. The town folks follow the monks and the Thagyamin and also carry with them a papier mache Thagyamin on a palanquin. On the banks of the river the papier mache Thagyamin and the clay frog princess are symbolically wedded and the procession returns to town and after the customary chanting of Buddhist mantras and sutras the monks the ceremony ends.

photos: Sonny Nyein(Swiftwinds)